New Object Research - The Aitor Throup Thread

[hendrix]

that's not the backpack, right?

 

[Ivwri]

Yup. That's the much smaller utility bag.

This is the backpack (upside down) -

image source


I find that the easiest way to tell them apart when discussing in writing is to refer to the smaller bags as "Shiva skull bags" while the backpack is simply the "Skull backpack". Both from different narratives so the skull design serves different purposes in both.

 

[NaTionS]

Just spent about 40 minutes going through this thread. Really interesting read, thanks for that.

Here is a pic I came across of someone actually wearing some AT:

 

[Ivwri]

Did anybody in New York see the Aitor installation? Been looking for pictures online and haven't seen anything yet.

Thanks for that pic NationS. I saw that as well on instagram. That same user also had another picture of the jeans standing on their own.

Not sure whether this was via photo editing or some super-stiff and reinforced denim though lol.

The jacket looks pretty nice in that picture based on what I can see at any rate. Still not sold on the pants in this fabric to be honest.

Interestingly, it seems like the AW13 collection and this DSM capsule collection all share modular properties allowing various outfits to be combined and fastened to each other depending on what the wearer would like for that day. I guess it makes sense in a way since Aitor is looking at producing clothing outside the typical seasonal system, it would stand to reason that he would want each release to be as versatile as possible within reason. Found some details of the DSM collection (Stockwell) on a blog here. Posting them below -


Skull backpack

Multi-compartment rucksack in the shape of an upside-down human skull.

Built-in compartment for up to 15" laptops.

Large secondary internal compartment integrated into the jaw opening.

High grade bridle leather straps with metal trims.

Detachable mesh lining with inter-locking cord system.

Bonded water resistant fabric finish and zips.

Ergonomically constructed back panel and strap system.

Unique edge-to-edge seaming process results in structurally accurate flat finish.

Stockwell Denim Jacket

Japanese denim 3-dimensionally surface treated on a sculpture.

Signature shoulder and sleeve construction.

Signature mesh storm cuffs with elasticated thumb loops.

Custom button and cord loop fastening system.

Specific formation of holes ready for future integration of separate inter-locking cord system garments.

Unique edge-to-edge seaming process results in structurally accurate flat finish.

Stockwell Jeans

Japanese denim 3-dimensionally surface treated on a sculpture.

Signature multi-dart leg construction.

Fully functional, water proof & Kevlar re-enforced foot covers integrated to legs.

The foot covers can be folded up and stowed away on the back of the ankles when not in use.

Engineered inner mesh sock secures the foot covers in place when in use.

Custom button and cord loop fastening system.

Unique edge-to-edge seaming process results in structurally accurate flat finish.

Stockwell T-shirt

Signature shoulder and sleeve construction.

Whole garment dipped into treatment solution.

Unique edge-to-edge seaming process results in structurally accurate flat finish.

 

[bows1]

Where is it in NYC?

 

[Ivwri]

It's the Atelier New York installation I posted about earlier that i was referring to bows. Ended on the 14th though.

 

[bows1]

Oh right. Yeah I don't really like Atelier that much so I don't go often

 

[Ivwri]

Lol bows. What's up with Atelier that keeps you away?

Aitor Throup was working on a collaborative project with Phil Hale the artist last year, but don't know what became of it. Not sure what form it was supposed to take either other than it was going to be called "Ziggurat". There was supposed to be an interview with Phil Hale on this site, but looks like the domain registration has lapsed so if they ever did do the interview it is lost for now. The suit looks pretty nice in this shot I think. Fabric looks extremely comfortable. Looks like it's one of the suits from the "Funeral for New Orleans" narrative. Possibly "trumpet" 'cos of the pants.


Looks like the model's outfit was based on (or the photograph inspired) these sketches by Aitor -

Phil Hale's artwork is really gorgeous and some of his paintings and drawings really remind me of Aitor's sketches. It's possible he was an influence on Aitor's style.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

[uzairh]

Great thread! Thanks for the stuff so far.

Lol bows. What's up with Atelier that keeps you away?

Yeah, what's up?

 

[uzairh]

Oki-ni's interview:
http://www.oki-ni.com/features/aitor-throup-interview-illustrations-ss13

Some of it sounds similar to Daisuke Nishida's approach to making garments in tune with human anatomy.

 

[Ivwri]

Thanks for posting that uzairh it was a really cool interview. The degree of his dedication and attention to detail is pretty scary and inspiring at the same time. Was showing the "Legs" video to someone and explaining my current obsession with all things Throup and I am even more excited now to see the most recent versions of concepts like his Hanuman pants or even the Trumpet trousers.

I definitely have to own one of those sketches that are up for sale on Oki-ni now. Wonder how long the skull bag will last once it comes out on the 4th, lol.

 

[jwjp]

Yes, that was a good interview. The price oki-ni is asking for those prints is ridiculous though. I would love to own one but I simply cannot justify that much money

 

[wogbog]

"I'm interested in contorting the human anatomy to a point where it is interesting" made me think of slow motion replays of tennis players hitting shots on the run because their bodies get contorted in a way that's awkward and beautiful at the same time.

 

[sipang]

Now I'm very curious about the armhole thing.

Some more sketches from The Breaks

​

 

[Ivwri]

Some pics from the Atelier New York exhibit marking the imminent launch of the Shiva skull bag -

via the official Facebook page

​

Thanks for posting some of those sketches sipang. The one with the bearded guy wearing the skull backpack is one of my favourite sketches by him. Would buy that in a heartbeat if it was for sale. Really like the little details like the apple above the head and the calf pocket pants. Excellent.