1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Mod to Suedehead

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Spirit of 69, Nov 19, 2008.

  1. The Syllabus

    The Syllabus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    57
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2014
    Sorry to go off on a tangent here but has anybody on here bar me bought the Solovair "Hawkins" Burgundy Horween Leather Boot from The British Boot Company? If so, what are your thoughts?
     
  2. Bela Kun

    Bela Kun Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    266
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2015
    Location:
    The Big Smoke
    Ain't got a camera, so these awkward laptop 'selfies' will have to suffice. I managed to fit the jeans in, but not the boots...

    I'm gonna delete them later as I don't really like putting pics of myself on the web. Anyway... the coat is sweet, isn't it?

    [pictures deleted]
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2016
    2 people like this.
  3. covskin

    covskin Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    907
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2014
    Location:
    England
    Looks fine - I like the lack of contrast between inner and outer - and goes well with the denim and the plain shirt. A 'not trying too hard' look. Length looks ok and looks to fit your shoulders.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2016
  4. Bela Kun

    Bela Kun Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    266
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2015
    Location:
    The Big Smoke
    They're the 'Long Day' 501s you recommended, Covskin. On my second pair now.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  5. flyfronted

    flyfronted Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    554
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2012
    Kid at my school had a Crombie made with 'crombie cloth ' from Burtons . Every boy aged between 12 and 16 was showed the label .. if my memories not fucked i think he said it had cost £15 or 15 Guineas ?
     
  6. flyfronted

    flyfronted Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    554
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2012
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2016
    2 people like this.
  7. Man-of-Mystery

    Man-of-Mystery Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,615
    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2009
    Location:
    Your Last Battlefield
    

    You mentioned 'Police' and I was making an obscure Bakunin joke! :D
     
  8. Bela Kun

    Bela Kun Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    266
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2015
    Location:
    The Big Smoke
    Too obscure for me! OK, you got me there [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2016
  9. The Saint

    The Saint Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    559
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2014
    Location:
    In the City. .
    

    Whilst I don't own that particular boot, I do have the Solovair Hawkins Astronauts, which is an eleven eyelet boot . They are very decent boots and the quality of the leather is certainly far superior to the MiC Doc's that are out there. I've been wearing Docs for a long , long time but the Solovair remind me of what Docs were like back in the days of yore, really decent boots but I paid a lot less than £245 !
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. Man-of-Mystery

    Man-of-Mystery Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,615
    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2009
    Location:
    Your Last Battlefield
    

    Excuse us, lads - Bela and I have got some in-jokes going on just now. Don't pay us any attention. :)
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. Bela Kun

    Bela Kun Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    266
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2015
    Location:
    The Big Smoke
    I wonder what the soles of your Astronauts are like?

    I've got a pair of Solovair 11 eye derby boots (maybe 10 years old, internal stitch) that feel very hard underneath - unlike DMs, no bounciness to the soles at all. But recently, I got a pair of their new 11 eye derby boots (external stitch), and if anything, the soles are even bouncier than DMs. So either Solovair finally got it right, or it varies from model to model.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2016
  12. covskin

    covskin Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    907
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2014
    Location:
    England
    

    I don't think Solovair ever had any problem getting it right, at one time Solovair were what you got if you asked for DMs. The Airwair soles were bought in/licensed seperate from the generic boot itself. So are the soles actually branded Solovair?
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2016
  13. Bela Kun

    Bela Kun Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    266
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2015
    Location:
    The Big Smoke
    Maybe it's just that particular model that had really hard soles, then. My other pair of Solovair feels much better.

    This is what the non-bouncy ones look like:
    [​IMG]
    And this is the more comfortable model I got more recently:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2016
  14. The Syllabus

    The Syllabus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    57
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2014
    Stay away from the Horween and The British Boot Company is my advice. Shit boot and shit company to deal with.
     
  15. covskin

    covskin Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    907
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2014
    Location:
    England
    The whole Dr Martens, Griggs, Airwair, Solovair thing is fairly complex. It is basically an owner/operator split but on two levels!

    http://businesscasestudies.co.uk/dr...rk-protection/introduction.html#axzz3zIhjgxRn

    Two things, patents and trademarks. The patent for the sole and the Dr Martens trademark applied to the sole were held by the German inventor. The patent for the sole presumably expired long ago but not before the German inventor licensed production of the sole to Griggs in Northampton. Griggs added their own Airwair trademark to the product and used it in their own boot production. Griggs also sold the sole unit alone and licensed use of their Airwair trademark to other bootmakers such as Solovair. At some point the patent will have expired allowing production of a generic sole under some trademark other than Dr Martens or Airwair provided the producer had the know how.

    So when I asked for Doc Martens 35 years ago I was given a boot branded Airwair made by Solovair. No wonder I asked if they were really Doc Martens!

    This is presumably all traceable/dateable in the names that appear on the sole unit - Dr Marten giving way to Airwair giving way to Solovair (and others?) - but given that tooling for production is fucking expensive I suspect there could be a timelag before any changeover in tooling leading to names persisting beyond the necessary.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2016
  16. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,742
    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2013
    Location:
    England
    Very interesting @covskin and thanks for sharing the link.
     
  17. Clouseau

    Clouseau Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,345
    Joined:
    May 18, 2013
    Location:
    Paris
    Early Dr Maertens german sole
    [​IMG]

    Not very well known, but the original Dr Maertens brand existed in Germany until the 90s. They made comfy shoes mainly for old people.

    [​IMG]


    Now, "back in the day" (that is before Airwair were the only to brand their soles Dr martens), the soles were (almost, some Hawkins had Hawkins Astronauts branded on it) all the same. The name of the manufacturer was written inside (Solovair, Hawkins, Tredair, George Cox, Aiwair, Loake, etc.)

    Speaking of contemporary DMs style footwear, i tried several (shoes, i don't wear boots for years, i've got an old 6 eyelets though), and i'm not that fond of the Solovairs, i found that the soles wore much faster than the Airwairs. I mainly got some MIE Aiwairs now, some are great stuff, like the Steeds, i like the thin sole, much smarter imho. I had some contemporary George Cox that were great too.
    Cox, Solovair, Loake, all brand their air soles (Dr Martens style) with their own name now.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2016
  18. The Saint

    The Saint Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    559
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2014
    Location:
    In the City. .
    The soles are superior to DM's. .

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Clouseau

    Clouseau Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,345
    Joined:
    May 18, 2013
    Location:
    Paris
    ^these soles wear definitely quicker. Wearing DMs for 35 years.
    You've got nice legs (and stockings) Saint. I understand know why you wear the Lee Riders slimfit 19 oz. You're so skinny [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  20. Bela Kun

    Bela Kun Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    266
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2015
    Location:
    The Big Smoke
    Yes, where can we get that hipster pantyhose with turn-ups?[​IMG]

    Well, that's good news, Saint. I've got a pair of antique Hawkins Astros - the pride of my humble collection - but if the soles give up for good, I might consider Solovair Astros instead of getting them resoled (not that anyone could resole Air Wair these days, could they?)
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2016
    4 people like this.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by