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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Visit to Marquess, Tokyo

    Had an opportunity to visit Marquess (Shoji and Yuriko Kawaguchi)'s atelier last weekend.

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    These are as Classic and British as you can get in Japan: Simple lines and impeccable craftmanship. Or is it the impeccable craftmanship that brings out the simple lines?

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    Kawaguchi is very keen to source the very best (top tier) leather he can get hold of, directly from Europe. Marquess shoes are also noticably free of fancy finishing and antiquing. He prefers the quality of the leather to speak for itself, and age gracefully over time...just like the old English way.....

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    Classic Proportions: (from the Left) Marquess Square, Marquess Round, Marquess Chisel. Would look best in classically cut trousers.

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    The country Oxford in the Classic Round last (right) is quite stunning. You don't often see an Ocher calf finished to such smoothness.

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    Marquess trial shoes. This pair has been worn for 2 months. I am inclined to believe that take home shoes (for extended test period) is among the strengths of Japanese Bespoke.

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    Kawaguchi's prized collection of old English shoes

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    VIntage Henry Maxwell and Tuczek

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    Shoji Kawaguchi in his work garb

    Many thanks to Mr. and Mrs. Kawaguchi for their incredible hospitality!
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2013
    5 people like this.
  2. TehBunny

    TehBunny Well-Known Member

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    Marquess are my absolute favorites from what I've been seeing on this thread and his philosophy is just the way I like my shoes! If I where to ever go bespoke in Japan it would definitely be with these guys.
    Also those vintage shoes are absolute HNNNNG!
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. clee1982

    clee1982 Well-Known Member

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    dumb question, why does the cap on cap toe looks slanted, I think I have read it somewhere, but forgot the real reason...
     
  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    I'm not all that familiar with the benefit of a more contoured or 'twisted' last, but it could be a way to put the center of gravity off centered towards the big-toe ball (to support a more natural way of walking)? I also heard elsewhere that it helps reduce creases on the vamp :) Please correct me if I'm wrong

    This Marquess sample shoe was on a soft surface (couch), so you can see how the contoured shape help put the center of gravity off-centered.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2013
  5. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    Still have some doubts about Marqueses qualifications as they claimed to work for JLP on their website but at their interview with Last magazine, they worked for Paul Wilson of Newcastle and then as out workers for west end makers.
     
  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Their website/blog doesn't say they worked for JLP. It says they apprenticed for a Bespoke shoemaker who does work for JLP. That shoemaker is Paul WIlson.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2013
  7. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    Gotcha. Not fluent in Japanese and can only decipher as much as I can.

    But then I thought JLP does everything in house at Paris and Marquese couple worked at Newcastle, UK.

    Guess I can find out when I see Paul later next month.
     
  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Glad I can help! :fonz:

    Yeah, I guess Paul and JLP sent stuffs back and forth (from NC to Paris)? :lol:
    Well, Delos did outworking job for JLP too from his Loire studio (heard this from his apprentice Mr.Endou),
    To be exact, Delos's studio had 2 separate operations: his own name brand operation, and his outworking operation for JLP and Berlutti.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2013
  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Hiro Yanagimachi
    Saddle Loafer in Croc

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    I'll be posting more pics from my visit to Hiro's workshop
     
  10. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    Is shinagawa near the main tokyo shopping area?
     
  11. Fang66

    Fang66 Well-Known Member

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    15 ~ 20 minutes from Shinjuku, same from Ginza.
     
  12. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, Shinagawa is a relatively convenient place to stay.

    It's a major business and transportation hub, so just hop on train and you'll have all the areas within close reach.
    You can also get on the bullet train here if you're planning to travel out of Tokyo.
     
  13. meister

    meister Well-Known Member

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    I used to stay in that big hotel in Shinagawa when I worked in the airlines years ago and stayed in Tokyo. Easy ride to Ginza etc [​IMG] Beautiful take on an early 1950s spectator.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2013
  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    On a sidenote.....

    There is an all female staffed Shoeshine parlor called "Sabrina" located in the Shinagawa Station, right across from Kamakura Shirts.

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    2 people like this.
  15. Fang66

    Fang66 Well-Known Member

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    Must resistttt... sexist polishing ... joke.
     
  16. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    :lol: They're quite legit. I've stood nearby and stared at them polishing shoes (yes, I did that), and they seemed quite good.

    Now, if you're looking for something like NYC's very own "Star Shine NYC" kinda service, well...Tokyo has that too (PM me if interested :))
     
  17. Fang66

    Fang66 Well-Known Member

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    Not if the girls are as homely as the ones on the Star Shine web page.
     
  18. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Ouch! :facepalm:
     
  19. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Shoe Shopping in Harajuku, Tokyo Part 1

    Harajuku....Tokyo's subculture and street fashion mecca is very busy on weekends with kids and tourists looking to see something pretty and weird. So what business do I have there? Harajuku is in fact a hotbed of classic menwear and footwear. The headquarters of menswear powerhouses BEAMS and UNITED ARROWS are located in this area.


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    Try squeezing through there

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    Harajuku celebrity: Candyman......ask for some candies and you shall receive....

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    Candyman is so popular.....

    BEAMS, with 129 stores in Japan and worldwide, calls Harajuku it's home (Harajuku is aka “Beams Town”). There are 7 or so BEAMS stores in the area...one for every taste.

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    When you get off the train, you'll see this billboard...

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    BEAMS for street fashion
    Beams (house brand)
    Clarks
    Descalzos
    Heschung
    Whites
    Yuketen
    + other casual shoe brands

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    BEAMS + 50's and 60's Americana
    Alden
    Atlantic Works
    Beams Plus (house brand: made in England)
    Russel Mocassins
    Thorogood

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    International Gallery BEAMS The largest of the stores
    Alden
    Church's
    G.Rodson
    George Cleverley Bespoke (few times a year)
    Foot the Coacher
    Heinrich Dinkelacker
    Miyashita Takahiro
    Paraboot
    Trickers

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    BEAMS F is their classic menswear store.
    Arafango
    Crockett & Jones
    Doucals
    Enzo Bonafe
    George Cleverleys
    Santoni

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    [​IMG]
    United Arrows Men Flagship Store: Store on both sides....
    Alden
    Church's
    Crockett & Jones
    F.lli Giacometti
    Max Verre
    Paraboot
    Sanders
    Rancourt
    White & Co.
    Spigola (Bespoke shows are held here)

    continued to Part 2
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2013
  20. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Shoe Shopping In Harajuku, Tokyo Part 2

    Boutiques and Select Stores

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    World Footwear Gallery: Great selection of imports and domestics (Miyagi Kogyo, Central)
    Central
    Cordwainers
    De Gier
    Di Mella
    Franceschetti
    Lendway Schwartcx
    Lobbs
    Magnanni
    Miyagi Kogyo RTW
    Perfetto
    Silvano Sassetti
    Sutor Mantelassi
    Union Imperial

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    Amber Court Classic Menswear salon
    Aubercy
    Belstaff (boots)
    Trickers

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    B.R. Shop Classic Menswear Select Store
    Di Mella
    Ferrante
    Hidetaka Fukaya: Il Micio (loafers)
    Peron & Peron (RTW)

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    L'Antico Guardaroba: Fine Select Store: Hosts regular trunk shows by Sartoria Dal Cuore

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    Yuki Shirahama Bottier Bespoke samples @ L'Antico Guardaroba. Mr. Bottier's Tokyo Trunk Shows happen here.

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    Gallery of Authentic: Cool boots
    Authentic Shoes & Co.
    Foot the Coacher

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    Hiro Yanagimachi Workshop: for extraordinary shoes (ie Bespoke)

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    Hiro Yanagimachi Bespoke Crocs X 3!

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    Sarto Leather repair specialist

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    Union Works Shoe Repair and Shine.

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    Browse through their shoe care products as well as Trickers and Schneider Boots while you wait....
     
    1 person likes this.

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