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Fancy-colored suit linings

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by tricket, Mar 12, 2004.

  1. Suitednyc

    Suitednyc New Member

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    [Uhm, how did they notice it? Took a peek inside your sleeves?]

    Not exactly. I think they are called side vents or maybe even walking with your jacket open. Uhm.
     
  2. T4phage

    T4phage Well-Known Member

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    Most of my bespoke items have a "fancy" lining.  Most of the time I purchase the silk at Ratti's or Mantero in Como, and bring it to my tailor.  Paisley's, tone on tone flowers, and yes on some occassions, scarves.

    Btw: I've heard that Mantero screens Hermes' scarves.
     
  3. General Koskov

    General Koskov Well-Known Member

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    Not to get away from the subject of 'fancyness', but are there any suit linings which 'breathe'? I prefer lining, but during the summer it gets pretty damned hot, so I'm looking for a middle-ground.
     
  4. BlvdDandy

    BlvdDandy Well-Known Member

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    how many Hermes scarves do you think it takes to line a coat? In general, how much material is required, were one to provide a tailor with their own lining material?
     
  5. RJman

    RJman Well-Known Member

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    Lennie Logsdail confirmed that it takes two.  The society writer A.A. Gill is a devotee of such Hermes scarf linings.  I once picked up a 1960s Charvet scarf for a euro and thought of finding a counterpart for the next Darren suit I was ordering.  I ended up asking Darren to turn it into pocket squares which sometime, one of these days, should be forthcoming.  

    Bright linings were one of the shibboleths of the bespoke tailoring mythos.  The idea that City pinstripes could be lined in hot pink was a catchy idea.  Like working buttonholes, it's a cheap and easy to duplicate bespoke feature which requires no extra skill.  Paul Smith used such things in the early 1980s in his suits.  Richard James and Timothy Everest were doing such things about ten years ago.  Boateng came onto the scene and made it his stock in trade to use guido-friendly flashy colors.  Of course he glommed onto the lining thing.

    My first expensive suit was a Richard James navy suit with a turquoise pinstripe and a turquoise lining.  The fabric is nice but the quality was disappointing.  Essentially this suit had a bespoke pretension without anything near a bespoke fit or bespoke quality.  It's also far too loud to wear most places.  For some years now RJ, ahead of the curve as usual, has not featured such eyepopping features.  Boateng continues to flounder along, quite well, too, now that Givenchy picked him for a Stella McCartney-style PR stunt.

    The thing about the bright flashy lining thing -- and I'm not far off the ages of any of the younger whippersnappers here -- is that it's kind of naff.  That said, a great  feature of bespoke is that you can pick a lining of your choice and have a signature color, whether it's flashy or subtle.  I've picked burgundy (in a nice, heavy, frighteningly expensive silk) in my bespoke suits and it's very cool.

    A friend of mine told me the story of a Royal Army friend of his dad's who years ago had gone to Gieves to have his uniform tailored.  As a whim, he asked for a red lining, to personalize it.  They flat out refused.  A far cry from now when they'll bespoke-weather your jeans or make you a hamster-fur coat.
     
  6. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Only two?

    I have one suit with a fancy lining -- also burgundy -- and I'm wearing it today, as it happens. When I first received it, I fretted that I had made a terrible mistake. It's 3-piece, and I wear it without the coat in the office most of the day, so everyone can see the burgundy on the back of the vest. It is rather striking. My wife calls it my "dracula" suit. But I have gotten used to it, and now rather like it.
     
  7. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Well-Known Member

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    As I recall, it wasn't anything quite as sinister as that, only something to the effect of "McQueen was here" scribbled in tailor's chalk on the inside of the lining.

    An interesting side note: In 2001, McQueen was recognized as "Designer of the Year" at the British Fashion Awards. Presenting him with the accolade was the putative victim of his sartorial mischief, Prince Charles.
     
  8. RJman

    RJman Well-Known Member

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    Darren says that when A&S opened up Prince Charles' suits there was nothing written in there. Maybe the tailor's chalk wore off.
     
  9. gamelan

    gamelan Well-Known Member

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    ha. this thread is rather appropriate for me. after the window shopping i've been doing on eBay the last few months i've decided that i want a Dolce and Gabbana jacket with one of their non-standard jacket linings (probably something in plaid).

    -Jeff
     
  10. globetrotter

    globetrotter Well-Known Member

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    I have some very nice watermarked linings, one is in red but that is the fanciest - O bought the linings as well as the fabric for the suit and took it to my tailor. I would very much like to turn some bright sari silk into suit lining.
     
  11. Nonk

    Nonk Well-Known Member

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    Military uniforms whether made by Gieves or otherwise have to comply with criteria set by the relevant Regimental/Corps dress committee, so I am not surprised they refused.

    Incidentally, the British Army (which I presume you are referring to) is not a Royal Army. This is a misconception I have found common among foreigners.
     
  12. boston

    boston Well-Known Member

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    i had a navy blue jacket made with a deep maroon lining. a nice touch, but not too flashy looking.

    i'm thinking of lining an upcoming charcoal suit with a purple lining. what do people think -- too much?

    -boston
     
  13. Zubberah

    Zubberah Well-Known Member

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    I'm a big fan. Especially the suit linings from Gianni Versace Couture suits made pre-Alias SpA by Zegna. Well before Paul Smith et al, Gianny was dishing out multi-coloured stripes, medusas, leopard spots, solids etc.

    Also love Richard James linings , esp. how he matches the colour of the pinstripe with lining. I have a navy suit with hot pink pinstripes and shocking hot pink lining. I always get stopped in the street and congratulated when I wear this suit. Beautiful looking but I wish it wasn't armour-like fused.
     
  14. Charles Rogers

    Charles Rogers Well-Known Member

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    Do you have a picture? I would love to see that.
     
  15. Concordia

    Concordia Well-Known Member

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    Chipp used to do a nice line of fancy linings. Foulard tie silks, and mirror-image Liberty scarves were the favorites. A pleasant shock under the very-serious exterior of their clothes.
     
  16. Tokyo Slim

    Tokyo Slim Well-Known Member

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    When I was ten, my mother had me learn to make all my own clothes. Needless to say, none of the other kids at school appreciated my efforts at unique tailoring back then.

    I was fond of doing things like making jeans with clear pockets made of shower curtain and etc. Anyhow, my winter coat that year was a hand-me down grey silk jacket that I lined with 40 or so hideous thrift store ties. It was a very interesting effect, and every once in a while, I'll see it done somewhere else and remember the savage beatings that happened at school when I'd show up with clear pocketed jeans and a ratty grey jacket sewed up with neckties. Kids can be so cruel.
     
  17. Doctor Crane

    Doctor Crane Well-Known Member

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    All this talk has inspired me, so here's my question: How hard, how expensive, and how competent must a tailor be to successful reline a suit jacket? Is it even advisable?
     
  18. Zubberah

    Zubberah Well-Known Member

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    (Baby Chickpea @ Feb. 05 2005,00:21) I have a navy suit with hot pink pinstripes and shocking hot pink lining. I always get stopped in the street and congratulated when I wear this suit. Beautiful looking but I wish it wasn't armour-like fused.
    Do you have a picture? I would love to see that.
    No, unforunately but I'm buying a digi camera over next few weeks so will try and remember to take a shot and post it/PM you.
     
  19. Trilby

    Trilby Well-Known Member

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    Does burgundy really qualify as a fancy-coloured lining? I think it's well within the bounds of a normal colour for a suit lining.

    I use a light blue lining in many of my bespoke items -- it's a bit different, but is still relatively restrained. The very flashy linings (e.g., bright red) appear so frequently in less expensive RTW suits now that I wouldn't consider having one in a good suit. As others have pointed out, over the past few years, they have been adopted by some of the mass market manufacturers in the UK as a cheap way to make their suits look distinctive.
     
  20. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    It's pretty easy. Much easier than a lot of other alterations that get discussed around here. Just be careful who you ask to do it. On better coats, the lining is largely attached by hand. Machine-attached lining doesn't quite "float" as effortlessly. And machine stitching has more and stiffer stitches, which can hamper the "fluidity" of the coat.
     

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