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Bespoke/MTM in NYC

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by leftover_salmon
Thanks. I'm not a ******* yokel, though. I just figured any OTR suit costs the same in NY as it does in any other major city, so why couldn't I find a tailor in the same ballpark as well? Seems out of whack.

1. Tailors have to pay rent, too.
2. Bespoke tailors are rare these days. The few there are in the U.S. are largely concentrated in Manhattan, so they can charge a lot.

Originally Posted by leftover_salmon
And why is everyone so fixated on the "Bespoke" part? I said "Bespoke/MTM" recognizing that true bespoke may be difficult/very expensive to find, but at the same time I want a little more personal service than Brooks Brothers MTM.

Because many of your demands are out-of-line for MTM. It is rare to get even a single fitting in MTM, nonetheless multiple ones. Afterall, the whole point of MTM is be a cost-effective alternative to RTW with increased customization. The suits are factory made, not bench made. So, generally speaking, a MTM seller will not stomach a re-cut if your suit is messed up and can't be fixed by alteration. He'll do whatever alterations allow him to keep tolerable margins, and then you can take it or leave it. If you leave it, he probably won't want to do business with you again. Thus you should always expect compromise when you go the route of MTM.
 

Mark Seitelman

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Originally Posted by PaoloM
Pretty sure Chipp is going out of business...


Not so according to a leading cloth merchant.

Mr. Winston is just relocating because the landlord wants to consolidate space. I would imagine that he would settle in the Brooks Bros. "nabe."
 

Mark Seitelman

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Originally Posted by leftover_salmon
* * *

And why is everyone so fixated on the "Bespoke" part? I said "Bespoke/MTM" recognizing that true bespoke may be difficult/very expensive to find, but at the same time I want a little more personal service than Brooks Brothers MTM.



Don't get hung-up on having the suit made "in house." Only a handful of tailors do, mostly the ones out of your price range. Even some of the most expensive tailors do not have the work done on premises. MTM is made in factories, such as English-American, Martin Greenfield, etc. MTM is a totally acceptable and reliable product.

Also, don't get fixated on multiple fittings. Generally, a MTM can only be tweaked and altered. If it is not essentially right "out of the box" there is little that can be done on multiple fittings. Incidentally, my London tailor does one fitting, the basted try-on. Nothing else is required from a master. The need for multiple fittings is unnecessary unless the suit does not fit from the beginning or if you are dealing with an inexperienced tailor.

Here are some possibilities:

1. LS Mens Clothes. The suits are made by outside factories, such as H. Freeman & Son, Southwick, Coppley, and a local workshop. They also do shirts. I have used them and can recommend them. You will easily get a suit within your price range.

2. Mr. Ned. They claim to make everything in-house. Within your price range.

3. Saint Laurie. They make what they sell, and the workshop is on the premises. Nice, honest people. Excellent cloth selection purchased direct from the mills, therefore, there is a savings to the customer. Within your price range.

4. Gilberto. The workshop is on the premises. Probably at the high end of your range or beyond the range.

5. Paul Winston. I understand that he offers a MTM made by an outside factory. Probably at the high end of your range.

6. Cego. Shirts. I can recommend Carl. Within your range.

7. Brooks Bros. for MTM shirts. Within your range.

8. Alexis Tailors on E. 77th St. between Third and Second. Probably at the high end or beyond your range. This shop is dedicated to making clothes. There are tailor/alteration shops scattered around the town which mostly do alterations. Some will make a custom suit. However, don't expect bargains. My alteration tailor will make a custom suit for $3,000 which he says far surpasses anything on Savile Row. (The bragging is for free.)

9. Alan Flusser Custom Shop. They offer a MTM suit by Southwick. Probably comes in at $2,000.

Brooks Bros. might have some cloths in your price range, but the offerings would be limited. It probably averages $2,000.

J. Press probably averages $2,200+, but they offer excellent, English cloths and service by Jay Walter, one of the best in the business.

All of the above provide excellent service, including Brooks.

Good luck.
 

Shirtmaven

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
1. Tailors have to pay rent, too.
2. Bespoke tailors are rare these days. The few there are in the U.S. are largely concentrated in Manhattan, so they can charge a lot.



Because many of your demands are out-of-line for MTM. It is rare to get even a single fitting in MTM, nonetheless multiple ones. Afterall, the whole point of MTM is be a cost-effective alternative to RTW with increased customization. The suits are factory made, not bench made. So, generally speaking, a MTM seller will not stomach a re-cut if your suit is messed up and can't be fixed by alteration. He'll do whatever alterations allow him to keep tolerable margins, and then you can take it or leave it. If you leave it, he probably won't want to do business with you again. Thus you should always expect compromise when you go the route of MTM.


did you not read any of my posts?
i found him several tailors that fit his criteria?

Mark Seitelman did a very nice job of giving him a little more information?
 

Brandedbysuits

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I am looking for someone higher price ranged 5-6K can anyone give me a recommendation?
 

Lizard23

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I use Michael Andrews exclusively and have been very happy with the service and quality given the price. Some of the touches they recommend are fashion forward but they will make you anything you want so if you go in there wanting a more traditional fit I am sure they would be able to accommodate.
 

forex

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Has anyone mentioned Martin Greenfield? I have suits from Greenfield under Brooks and they are nicely made.
 

Shirtmaven

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Originally Posted by forex
Has anyone mentioned Martin Greenfield? I have suits from Greenfield under Brooks and they are nicely made.

i don't think our newcomer really wants to visit bushwick.
I have lived here since 1980 and i don't want to go to bushwick.
now maybe if I had a 20 something artist girlfriend.......
 

mlongano

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Originally Posted by Brandedbysuits
I am looking for someone higher price ranged 5-6K can anyone give me a recommendation?
Try Leonard Logsdail.
 

taxgenius

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Originally Posted by Brandedbysuits
I am looking for someone higher price ranged 5-6K can anyone give me a recommendation?

Try Jacob Kozinn.
 

bcjohn

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Mark: Excellent thread. Do you have any thoughts regarding purchasing MTM suits or sport coats in the price range referenced in your thread as opposed to buying a "quality" OTR suit/sport coat in the same price range? My bespoke/MTM purchases have not turned out the way I had hoped. Simply put, the resulting product never quite looks they way I thought it would. Part of the reason is probably because I am not paying top dollar for the product. However, with tuition payments, etc., I am not in a position to pay $4-5,000 for a top quality bespoke/MTM suit. (Even without tuition payments, etc., I am not sure I would pay that much for a suit.) A 42 reg OTR suit fits me quite well. With this in mind, would I get a better fit from a quality OTR suit as opposed to paying the same amount for a bespoke/MTM suit from you list of 9 or so tailors/stores. Thanks.
 

GiltEdge

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Actually at Paul Stuart MTM it's possible to get the price bellow $2,000. We've had it happen a few times.
 

GiltEdge

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Originally Posted by Mark Seitelman
Not so according to a leading cloth merchant.

Mr. Winston is just relocating because the landlord wants to consolidate space. I would imagine that he would settle in the Brooks Bros. "nabe."


Good to hear that, very good to hear that. I think every tailor's moving around the city.
 

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