3-roll-2 with an awkward button stance?

[dieworkwear]

I like Biden's suit better, but he shouldn't have done up that top button. And shorter legs with cuffs would have been nice.

What do you like about Biden's suit?

 

[Concordia]

3b, slightly softer. Obama's is fine in concept but looks like a RTW jacket that just doesn't quite fit him.

 

[dieworkwear]

3b, slightly softer. Obama's is fine in concept but looks like a RTW jacket that just doesn't quite fit him.

I don't particularly like either suit, but like Obama's slightly more.

I don't know why, but Biden's suit looks like it's climbing up on his neck.

May have just been that night, however. In other photos, it seems to sit correctly, for the most part, and shows the right amount of shirt collar.

I still think this would look better if it were a 3r2 or a hard two. Dislike the short lapels and how much fabric takes up the middle of the body when buttoned.

 

[Concordia]

I see that as binding to the neck. It would be better if it rolled slightly, though.

Obama's doesn't want to stay closed on the chest.

 

[polyfusion]

If I resuscitate this thread do you think @dieworkwear will share more great 3roll2 archive shots for us all. I feel like I need some on this cold November day.

 

[noobanker]

I don't particularly like either suit, but like Obama's slightly more.

I don't know why, but Biden's suit looks like it's climbing up on his neck.

View attachment 1650171


May have just been that night, however. In other photos, it seems to sit correctly, for the most part, and shows the right amount of shirt collar.

View attachment 1650169



I still think this would look better if it were a 3r2 or a hard two. Dislike the short lapels and how much fabric takes up the middle of the body when buttoned.

View attachment 1650170 View attachment 1650172

jesus these are horrible.

 

[FlyingMonkey]

According to this logic, shouldn’t we all just be wearing 1-button suits and sport coats at this point then? Since the bottom button is always to be left undone?

Well, if you are short, like me, that's exactly what many Savile Row tailors will do. All my bespoke pieces have 1-button. And they look great (although apologies for the crap photos)...

 

[dieworkwear]

If I resuscitate this thread do you think @dieworkwear will share more great 3roll2 archive shots for us all. I feel like I need some on this cold November day.

Photo of Gary Cooper in Venice (1955). There's another photo of him from the same day, which shows this is a 3r2. But StyleForum limits the number of photos I can post, so I'm selecting the cooler shot, even though this angle obscures the button configuration.

Here's Tony Biddle, who George Frazier once called "the best-dressed man in America" in his Esquire essay "The Art of Wearing Clothes." IMO, it's the best essay ever written about classic men's style.

And finally, two for @Bromley

 

[polyfusion]

All I was hoping for here Derek, and damn there’s some nice shots .
It’s funny how an unnecessary buttonhole adds so much, but I believe it does . Hyperbolic as it may sound I can’t help but feel that configuration represents the optimism of an era.

 

[Verve]

Nice pics as always, Derek. I recently ordered a 3r2 3ps in a dark brown. For some unknown reason, I’m digging the brown tones and the 3r2 style. When I spoke to one industry person, I think he was able to elaborate on that unknown reason. Brown tones convey a warm, casual environment, making those in-person meetings more relaxing and inviting.

 

[Eli Curt]

Nice pics as always, Derek. I recently ordered a 3r2 3ps in a dark brown. For some unknown reason, I’m digging the brown tones and the 3r2 style. When I spoke to one industry person, I think he was able to elaborate on that unknown reason. Brown tones convey a warm, casual environment, making those in-person meetings more relaxing and inviting.

Brown is very tough for a business meeting. I've done it before but it always draws attention for me. I prefer to draw subtle positive attention - not outright verbal comments such as, "oh, is brown back *in* for suits?"

 

[Concordia]

jesus these are horrible.

Not terrible, actually. My only beef is that he buttoned the top. Makes the whole thing look too manicured.

Of course, he might have been trying to avoid the slings and arrows sent at his former boss for daring to wear such a fabric with only two buttons.

 

[Verve]

Brown is very tough for a business meeting. I've done it before but it always draws attention for me. I prefer to draw subtle positive attention - not outright verbal comments such as, "oh, is brown back *in* for suits?"

If I was in a meeting where others will be in suits, I see your point about the wrong type of attention with brown. However, in my meetings with clients, I’m usually the only one in a suit. Thus, my navies, greys, charcoals, and browns have never drawn the wrong type of attention.

Over the years in my work environment, I have learned to wear things that lean towards business conservative so my clients, new and old, aren’t distracted by my attire and focus on why they are there to see me… for the consultations.

 

[BomTrady]

I don't know for sure, but I've always assumed it's due to the type of canvas used and the technique used in pad stitching. On my Steed jackets, the area where the lapel breaks is fairly flat. It doesn't have as much "expression" or "roll." The canvas inside feels lighter and thinner (from what I can tell without opening the jacket). The lapels on my Solito jackets feel heavier and have a lot more curvature. When I asked Luigi how they do such an expressive role on the lapels, he explained it's an effect of the hand stitching, which I assume he means pad stitching.

As explained to me by Taka from Liverano, the padding is stitched onto the lapel while it's rolled so it's stays that way because it's constructed that way. I think some very expensive machines can also do it these days too, but it's mostly a product of hand tailoring.

Edit: The professional explanation given earlier by @Despos .