First Basted Fitting Pics - Navy Jacket - Richard Lim Tailor

coolal · Apr 7, 2011

My full review of Richard Lim and his shop, High Society, is still in the works.

However, I was there today for the first fitting on my new navy London Lounge Brisa jacket and decided to snap some pics.

The jacket will be two button, with three functional buttons on the sleeve. It'll be half lined with cotton / silk shirting, hopefully making it a bit more breathable. It's fully canvassed and unpadded, except for a tiny amount inserted during the fitting today.

The lapels are a wider version of what I experimented with on my last blazer. It's somewhere around a "cran necker" / fishmouth / open peak.

Two Questions that are nagging at me:

First, the length right now is considered "full length" by Richard, and he suggested as an option a slightly more contemporary length (which I opted for) that would be about 1/2" shorter. How does the length look to you guys?

Second, the jacket actually draped quite well without any lining. I'm considering asking Richard to only line the front and shoulders while leaving the back and arms unlined. Any thoughts?

I'll be touring the workshop in back on my next visit, so if you guys have any picture requests, let me know. Richard was kind enough to snap some pics.

Please forgive the poor posture and picture quality; it was very candid and impromptu.

Front Open:

Front Closed:

Side:

Back:

Lapel / Collar template I delivered to them with "Barchetta" breast pocket template:

CaymanS · Apr 7, 2011

Great pics. Looking fwd to seeing the finished product.

quar · Apr 7, 2011

Difficult to comment on length without a full-body picture, but I wouldn't make it shorter from what I can see there.

yeeth · Apr 7, 2011

this length looks good to me.
perhaps the sleeve pitch is a little too forwards?
i'd show a teeny bit more cuff too.

oh, and where did you get that lapel template from?

jamesbond · Apr 7, 2011

Button stance seems a bit high for a 2-button? Everything else looks good.

rsuhandy · Apr 7, 2011

Length of jacket is fine right now,
but I think shortening it .5 inches would be fine too.
I think it's a matter of preference, as it certainly wouldn't look
too short IMHO.

GiltEdge · Apr 7, 2011

Originally Posted by yeeth

this length looks good to me. perhaps the sleeve pitch is a little too forwards? i'd show a teeny bit more cuff too.
It's a raw try on for god sake. Also I have never seen such a waste of time as this. They could have gone much further with making the jacket, cutting the pockets, and even sewing the darts and some of the other seams. Most raw try-on's look like this:

alliswell · Apr 7, 2011

Take the 1/2" off. I assume the fronts will be rounded at the corners. Do you really want the breast pocket and the lapels to be rounded off too? I think it'll look 70s.

TheTukker · Apr 7, 2011

I can see what you mean with the lining, but would probably still go with 1/2.

Originally Posted by quar

Difficult to comment on length without a full-body picture, but I wouldn't make it shorter from what I can see there.

+1; hard to tell without full pic, but looks fine.

Originally Posted by jamesbond

Button stance seems a bit high for a 2-button? Everything else looks good.

+1

TheTukker · Apr 7, 2011

Originally Posted by PaoloM

It's a raw try on for god sake. Also I have never seen such a waste of time as this. They could have gone much further with making the jacket, cutting the pockets, and even sewing the darts and some of the other seams. Most raw try-on's look like this:

I thought people had told you before to stop making a fool of yourself, but it seems you just can't get enough of it. Not sure who you think you are to call this a waste of time; seems to me that that's up to the tailor. Also, not even sure what a "raw try-on" is, but I wonder where you get the authority from to state what most of them look like.

Never mind.

Master-Classter · Apr 7, 2011

length looks fine to me. while it could be shorter from the front angle, from the back any shorter and it looks like it won't cover your butt.

shoulders look a little wide to me.

top of the back looks too tight.

otherwise looks good!

GiltEdge · Apr 7, 2011

Originally Posted by Lonneker

I thought people had told you before to stop making a fool of yourself, but it seems you just can't get enough of it. Not sure who you think you are to call this a waste of time; seems to me that that's up to the tailor. Also, not even sure what a "raw try-on" is, but I wonder where you get the authority from to state what most of them look like.

Never mind.

A raw try-on is what you forum people refer to as "basted shell fittings"

coolal · Apr 7, 2011

Originally Posted by CaymanS

Great pics. Looking fwd to seeing the finished product.

Thanks, will do!

Originally Posted by yeeth

this length looks good to me.
perhaps the sleeve pitch is a little too forwards?
i'd show a teeny bit more cuff too.

oh, and where did you get that lapel template from?

I took some heavy drafting paper and sketched the lapel shape I wanted. After a few attempts, I ended up with what you see.

Originally Posted by jamesbond

Button stance seems a bit high for a 2-button? Everything else looks good.

Now that you've pointed it out... I'm starting to see that as well. I'll ask about having the lapels roll down a bit further (about 1") while also lowering the button stance to match.

Originally Posted by alliswell

Take the 1/2" off. I assume the fronts will be rounded at the corners. Do you really want the breast pocket and the lapels to be rounded off too? I think it'll look 70s.

Something about the rounded corners really sing to me. Perhaps I've got too many 70's euro films in my subconscious... It's an experiment for now, but so far I'm into it.

-------------

I'm going back to Richard tomorrow to check on different lining options. I'll try the jacket on again and see about the 1/2" length adjustment and button stance (My decision on one should affect the other).

Thanks for the help you guys!

badsha · Apr 7, 2011

Looks good coolal. Cant wait to see how it turns out. Looking forward to High Society in-depth review.

coolal · Apr 8, 2011

What do you guys think about moving the gorge down about 1/2 - 1 inch? That'll also push the button stance down the same amount.

I certainly think the button stance needs to be adjusted just a tad. However, I'm trying to weigh adjusting the gorge, lowering the button stance, and / or shortening the jacket by 1/2". Probably some combination of the three...

First Basted Fitting Pics - Navy Jacket - Richard Lim Tailor

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