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  1. philosophe

    Getting my first bespoke item (sport coat)

    Another vote something dark blue. A small pattern or some texture would also be a plus. Solid gray looks like a lost suit jacket.
  3. philosophe

    Classic, straight, double pleated trousers which don't look pre-war and don't taper like contemporary cuts.

    If you're stateside, you might contact NoManWalksAlone. They do MTM with Sartoria Carrara, and there are a lot of design options. The price will not be cheap, but you might be able to get just what you want.
  4. philosophe

    WAYWRN: Classic Menswear, Casual Style

    Happy Easter, Wooly!
  5. philosophe

    Rubato

    Same experience as Iskander. Plus they told me that the price for international shipping has decreased. None of that explains price increases on the order of narly $100 per item.
  6. philosophe

    WAYWRN: Classic Menswear, Casual Style

    When you're pushing the temperature margin, the jacket will look better on gray, rainy days.
  7. philosophe

    High-twist wool with glen plaid pattern - okay for a sport coat?

    OP, Despos says it all.
  8. philosophe

    HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

    @lindenbaum, the tie is definitely a problem.
  9. philosophe

    HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

    Congrats, Wolfdale! You look great.
  10. philosophe

    Rubato

    Definitely sz 32.
  11. philosophe

    Re-using fabric from family heirloom suits from Venezuela: advice?

    Ranciere69, as you've probably discovered Despos is a master tailor. Follow his advice!
  12. philosophe

    Re-using fabric from family heirloom suits from Venezuela: advice?

    My guess--and it's non-expert guess--is that you might be able to have the pants recut to fit. Jackets are a more complicated story, due to the shoulder construction and the length, which dictates the pocket placement. You might post this question on the "ask a tailor" thread to get more expert...
  13. philosophe

    ٭٭٭ No Man Walks Alone - Official Affiliate Thread ٭٭٭ (a.k.a. I shouldn't have slept on it)

    If you put the coat on a flat surface and button all the buttons, do you see the wrinkling problem? Or is this problem evident only when you wear the coat? If the former, perhaps one button is misaligned. If the latter, the problem might be the overall dimensions of the front of the coat as...
  14. philosophe

    ٭٭٭ No Man Walks Alone - Official Affiliate Thread ٭٭٭ (a.k.a. I shouldn't have slept on it)

    Zranger, did you check the button placement?
  15. philosophe

    HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

    AAS, I like the pink & brown combo in principle, but the cord jacket looks better with pants with some texture and depth of color. Overall, I lpreferred the pink & gray look you posted earlier.
  16. philosophe

    A Decent Tailor in Philadelphia?

    One good option might be Larnell Baldwin, if he hasn't retired. He's taught many tailors and seen it all. https://www.larnellbaldwin.com/
  17. philosophe

    Shoulder always too tight. Tips and dirty tricks for avoiding the tailor?

    Depending on your budget, MTM of some kind would help. Off the rack, perhaps look for suits with a more athletic cut to accommodate a large drop.
  18. philosophe

    HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

    Congrats on your anniversary!
  19. philosophe

    WAYWRN: Classic Menswear, Casual Style

    Encore, I can see that you're going for a muted combination, but I think it's gone too far. The purple socks are a lovely bit of liveliness, but the sweater and the jacket are too toned down together. I'd change the sweater or the jacket.
  20. philosophe

    A Decent Tailor in Philadelphia?

    Unfortunately Capa Cueros on Chestnut Street closed. I would ask Voltaire, the owner of Style by Blain, whom he recommends. If you're in center city, Steve Jamison at Blue Sole Shoes or the shoe department folks at Boyd's can make suggestions.
  21. philosophe

    WAYWRN: Classic Menswear, Casual Style

    That‘s quite the shirt. Typical for you?
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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 85 37.3%

  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 87 38.2%

  • Really don't care

    Votes: 24 10.5%

  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 36 15.8%

  • Depends on price

    Votes: 36 15.8%
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