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Search results
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Filson Bag Thread: With Pictures
Hi, owner of a 256 and 220 here. I'm considering a Sportsman presently, all three variations of it: the 70266, the Original Sportsman Camera bag, and the Heritage Sportsman. For those who have handled the Sportsman Camera Bag, is there padding integrated into the walls and base of the bag or is...- hymo
- Post #5,558
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread
Everything in that picture is the same as on any fully canvassed jacket, only it has been dyed black.- hymo
- Post #15,943
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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gennaro paone: former head tailor of rubinacci
It has that Foo look!- hymo
- Post #2,224
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread
In fact some tailors use "fitting canvasses"; these are canvasses which do not go into final jackets but are used and reused in skeleton bastes. They tend to look old and worn. So if you see a permanently made canvas which looks like it's 10 years old in your baste, it's only a fitting canvas...- hymo
- Post #2,281
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread
The other thing I would watch out for are canvasses which appear to have been permanently made up during the skeleton baste fitting stage (the first fitting). I would personally avoid machine sewn canvasses, but even if you do not mind, the canvas should nonetheless only be provisionally sewn...- hymo
- Post #2,280
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread
Very interesting thread, this one. Would just like to shed some light on hand padded canvas vs. machine sewn canvas. The best way to bring together the various layers of canvassing is by hand padding by someone who knows what he's doing/ has been properly trained. The pad stitches on the canvas...- hymo
- Post #2,276
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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When is 'bespoke' tailoring not bespoke? A serious discussion...
Japanese restaurants have been known to refuse American customers' request for sugar in their green tea...- hymo
- Post #63
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Folded Up Shirt Appreciation
Should check if the shirt was a CEGO.- hymo
- Post #4,500
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Folded Up Shirt Appreciation
I guide my customers towards close-fitting cuffs with reserve length in the sleeves. A cuff should never hang from the sleeve; it should stay in place because of its small circumference. I find hanging cuffs an abomination.- hymo
- Post #4,498
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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new ties -- passagio
It's a vendetta because the guy who started all this, SartodiNapoli, is an unbelievably eccentric, toxic, and just evil creature who has been banned multiple times on this forum. His infamy started as Spalla Camicia, where he accused Chiaia Napoli of scamming him of shirts and of atrocious...- hymo
- Post #114
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Shirting Fabric- Is Acorn still the best bet?
If I was Acorn, I'd be quite concerned. Their stalwart quality, the Grange, is easily exceeded in quality by any number of Indian imports at a fraction the price. Their higher qualities are all uncompetitve against the Italians. On the design front, they have zero talent. Acorn's strength is...- hymo
- Post #47
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Hong Kong Tailor- Empire Int'l Tailors- Help with the fit of my suit
Robert, the silhouette you wish for is impossible with a corpulent body like yours. The jacket the tailor made for you is technically sound and is how a technically-sound jacket looks like on a corpulent customer. Do not have anything on the jacket changed. The trousers are however quite...- hymo
- Post #58
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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WW Chan Shanghai Suit Results
Once they see that the alterations are necessitated by their fault, not the customer's taste, I'm pretty sure they will waive it.- hymo
- Post #21
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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WW Chan Shanghai Suit Results
I think you're just standing over erect in the pictures. Assume your normal slouched posture, not your ideal posture, when taking the pics.- hymo
- Post #12
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura
The problem may only be apparent with customers who have rounded shoulders. With these sort of shoulders, the entire jacket is suspended off a point about 3/4 of the shoulder. From there to the tip of the shoulder, the jacket shoulder is unsupported, with a pocket of air between human shoulder...- hymo
- Post #2,771
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura
It may have to do with the part where the shoulder pads are machine sewn to the canvas and cloth. This is the step either immediately before the sleeves are mounted or after. I think if the coatmaker is alerted to this problem, it will disappear quite quickly. But then the shoulder will be...- hymo
- Post #2,770
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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On Swelled Edges: When Are They Best Used?
I doubt it is ever a running stitch if sewn by hand. There are these relatively long stitches on the underside that can snag on things. With a backstitch, any damage to the stitch remains local. With a running stitch, you'd have to re-do the entire pick stitching. I guess with swelled edges it...- hymo
- Post #17
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Help with Modern Tailor Shirt (Fabric bunching between collar and shoulder)
It has to do with shoulder slope of the yoke. If you try make your shoulders slope downwards even more, the bunching will disappear.- hymo
- Post #4
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura
Huh? The LL and Manton like the sort of cloths that have no popular appeal -- the merchants who have those cloths at their core are all either dead, dying, or were bought out. This does not mean their cloths are not admirable -- just uncompetitive in today's market.- hymo
- Post #2,292
- Forum: Classic Menswear