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  1. amplifiedheat

    High vs Low button stance

    On proportionate people the waist is the narrowest part of the torso (on most people that happens to be an inch above the navel. Some people are high-waisted and others are low-waisted. For a suit, the buttoning point of the jacket and the top of the trousers both must relate to the waist for a...
  3. amplifiedheat

    Article from The Rake: how to break the rules

    Anything below your waist is low rise. It's not an absolute number. For me 11.5 inch rise would be around my waist. It sounds like it's below your waist. +1. The former. Trousers these days are overwhelmingly sold with seriously inadequate rises, although it's possible those have slipped down...
  4. amplifiedheat

    Three-piece without a tie?

    Each morning, he gets up and says, "How can I best look like a douche today?"
  5. amplifiedheat

    Short Suit Sizes For Average Height People

    Covers butt? Long enough. Does not cover butt? Not long enough.
  6. amplifiedheat

    True 3 button jacket - What button to button ?

    It seems to me a 3 button suit/ SC is best worn by slender ( skinny ) young fellows. I've also heard "I'm short, and 3-buttons are for tall guys," and "I'm tall, and 3-buttons are for short guys." It's all bullshit. Everyone can wear a well-cut 3-button.
  7. amplifiedheat

    How much movement in a suit?

    That vertical split is an action back, like I was talking about. It's pretty subtle when it's not open.
  8. amplifiedheat

    HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part II

    Best to let out the seat a bit, to avoid that tightness in the crotch.
  9. amplifiedheat

    How much movement in a suit?

    Here's a related question. In the James Bond movies, does he (and the stunt doubles) really do the action scenes in normal (bespoke) suits or do the costume folks make some sort of lycra look-a-like? "Tom Ford is Bond's tailor for the movie Quantum of Solace. Actor Daniel Craig is reported to...
  10. amplifiedheat

    How much movement in a suit?

    Armhole size is part of the equation, though it probably gets more press than it deserves. Fullness across the shoulder blades is essential. The rarely-seen action back (a.k.a. bi-swing back) also would be welcome.
  11. amplifiedheat

    Got a new suit but don't know about the fit!

    I don't know why this idea keeps sticking around, that jacket length has anything to do with your arms. Arm length varies. Some people have no arms at all, and still have a correct suit length. So I will say, yet again: If a suit jacket does not cover the bottom, it is too short. If it goes...
  12. amplifiedheat

    Suit Jacket faux pas?

    I helped grow loofahs one time. It's a hell of a time getting them from gourd to sponge.
  13. amplifiedheat

    True 3 Button Jackets and Suits

    The 2 1/2 roll, as it's sometimes called, is the finest single-breasted jacket for suits. Neither stubby like the true three nor ambiguous like the 3 roll 2, it is more majestic than a simple two-button. It suits most body types.
  14. amplifiedheat

    How do you keep your trousers pressed and looking sharp?

    I had the permanent crease applied to a pair of trousers. They really do stay crisp. That said, learning how to iron pants is a skill you want to learn. It's frustrating at first, but worth doing. The important thing is lining up the seams and getting the pants completely flat--after that, the...
  15. amplifiedheat

    Pleated Trousers without cuffs

    Pleats=crisp, comfortable. Two work better than one. Forward does hang better, but reverse is fine. Cuffs are unrelated to pleats, functionally, historically, and visually. Cuffs are cool. I don't have many uncuffed pants, flat front or pleated. The only rule on cuffs is "don't cuff formal...
  16. amplifiedheat

    suit sleeve gussets?

    I only know a little about tailoring, but one thing that occurred to me was the idea of essentially narrowing the armhole and sleevehead and filling the resulting space with a sort of crescent-shaped gusset. It would probably be more complex and difficult to get right, but less noticeable. The...
  17. amplifiedheat

    Black Tie questions

    Um? I assumed you were being facetious. Citing Esquire or GQ as an authority on what's classic would usually be considered a joke around here. (I saw one GQ guide on black tie that got roughly one out of three pieces of advice correct.) The first tuxedos did in fact have uncreased, unpleated...
  18. amplifiedheat

    Flat front/slim trousers for thinner waist, bigger hips

    Taking in the waist is a simple alteration. Your dry cleaner can do it.
  19. amplifiedheat

    blazer fit questions

    second why do people always do this when they try on a jacket. do you often run down hallways like this making whooshing sounds... If not when will this event ever happen on a regular basis in your world that you feel it is crucial to the fit. I mean honestly It's not an exact analogue, but...
  20. amplifiedheat

    How can you tell if a suit is recent?

    Carbon 14? Damn, I was going to say that.
  21. amplifiedheat

    Type of Collar to Wear 2-3 buttons unbuttoned with a jacket

    For some reason, this thread is making me feel angry. Exactly.
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