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  1. a tailor

    finally !!!!!!!

    At last, "next year" finally got here! The cubs made it.
  3. a tailor

    Happy new year

    Yes happy new year Its the winter solstice, and thats the earths true new years eve. SO HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERY ONE!
  4. a tailor

    seasons greetings

    Its the first day of the earths natural new year. HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!
  5. a tailor

    HAS ANYONE TRIED THE NEW SHAVER?

    Its that new shaver thats advertised for women with facial hair. It might be good for men with tender skin. Its a dry type shaver.
  6. a tailor

    WHY SHIRT DARTS?

    Why? Well most shirts are cut straight up and down. some have a little shaping, but not much. So here is the problem the tailor has when tapering a shirt to fit you. See that line down the side of the figure. that is the center line down the side of the body It is also the position of the side...
  7. a tailor

    One hip higher?

    Do you have a trouser with one leg that kicks out to the side? Or one crease line up straight and one swing to the side? The offending leg is probably longer than the other. All that is caused by a high hip on one side. Its all caused by a tilted pelvis. The pelvis is one solid rough...
  8. a tailor

    DESIGN YOUR OWN LAPEL

    The next time you order a m2m or custom suit would you like to have some-thing different in the lapels style? Yes you can have that, and also you can be your own designer with this.... Its some-thing called a *shaper. they are found in m2m and custom work shops. They are the size and shape of...
  9. a tailor

    LAPELS LAPELS LAPELS

    There are choices for coat pockets and trouser pockets buttons and linings. For a single breast there is the common notch, or for the adventurous possibly a default peak. that default peak will be what the pattern maker thinks looks good, possibly what you would not choose. But are these the...
  10. a tailor

    how are m2m balance changes made?

    What is it? Just like many things in life its a crap shoot. When you play craps you can win big, or you can loose big. It's the same with online m2m. you can get a beautifuly fitted suit but you can just as easily get a piece of junk. Or something in between. consider this, you are expected...
  11. a tailor

    ALTS for Stooped Posture

    Looking back on "balance explained" we know that its controlled from the top. For erect posture we needed shorter back and longer front. But now for a stooped posture we need a longer back and a shorter front. First - the dotted lines show the front being pulled up short. This also requires...
  12. a tailor

    Custom, bespoke,made to measure?

    OK, here we go. Most people that are not tailors hear the terms custom, bespoke, and made to measure. They make up their own idea of what the terms mean. They then tell others, and soon everyone misunderstands. Lets look at made to measure. Usually in made to measure the important work is...
  13. a tailor

    uncomfortable trouser butt/and its apearance

    there is no nice way to express it except to say it. the trouser is riding *********** crack. there are three causes 1. the back fork is too tight or the center back seam is too crooked or its both at the same time. shown are the positions of the original trouser seams they are marked A...
  14. a tailor

    UNCOMFORTABLE TROUSER BUTT AND its APEARANCE

    there is no nice way to express it except to say it. the trouser is riding *********** crack. there are three causes 1. the back fork is too tight or 2. the center back seam is too crooked or 3. its both at the same time. shown are the positions of the original trouser seams they are marked...
  15. a tailor

    FINDING THE CANVAS

    here is the easiest way to find the canvas. on our diagram the dotted line shows the edge of the canvas. the seam line is the seam that joins the wool facing to the lining. the canvas always extends past the facing into the lining area.more or less. most folks can feel the edge of the canvas...
  16. a tailor

    ALTERING THE RISE

    When we have a rise thats too long, to deep, too high, what ever you wish to call it, its a major alteration. The waist band is removed along with the lining and thr belt loops. As much as one inch can be cut off the top pof the trouser. Cutting off more than that would interfere with the...
  17. a tailor

    USING YOUR PRESSING EQUIPMENT

    Dont try to press the entire garment at one time, just one section at a time. set your iron at medium or wool. you will need to experiment till you find the right setting that suits you . with the garment on the board or buck, place the press cloth on the garment . now dip your sponge in the...
  18. a tailor

    EQUIPMENT NEEDED FOR PRESSING YOUR SUIT

    First go to a fabric store. Ask for 100 % cotton drill. purchase one yard, thats about 6 or 7 bucks. at home toss in the washer along with the laundry.. after drying, iron it out with steam . now cut a strip 10" wide and the full 36" length of the cloth. do the same on the other side You now...
  19. a tailor

    GAPING POCKETS

    Do the pockets on your trousers gape and stick out like wings? Why? because the trousers are too tight even thought it may not seem so. Lets do an experiment. Put the trouser on and hook the waist but Leave the zipper open. Now pull thr pockets closed and flat. See the result, The fly pulls...
  20. a tailor

    DRESSING A TROUSER

    Have you have noticed that your rtw flat front trousers are looser on one side of the front? If it is, then that tells you that the trousers are not dressed. On pleated trousers its not as noticeable because of the fullness in the pleats. Rtw trousers are not dressed and sometimes called center...
  21. a tailor

    UNCOMFORTABLE SHOULDER? forward shoulders

    Does your suit coat feel as though its fighting you? Is it pushing back against your shoulder like all the weight of the coat is resting on the tip of the shoulder? And even though the shoulders look fine, upper front of the armhole feels too wide? So that the front of the coat seems to cover...
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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 100 36.8%

  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 98 36.0%

  • Really don't care

    Votes: 34 12.5%

  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 44 16.2%

  • Depends on price

    Votes: 41 15.1%
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