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  1. Z

    The Japanese Bespoke Tailoring Thread

    thank you @Destination_Arubin. Whilst I cannot argue for personal preference, I do want to add that I precisely included patterned high-twist wools as my recommendation to avoid. I think the sharpness of high-twist wools is most apparent, as you rightly say, in the plain versions, but there is...
  3. Z

    The Japanese Bespoke Tailoring Thread

    I would recommend NOT choosing a high twist wool for nothing else than suits. I have sport coats in both Fresco and Spring Ram and I don't like them both, despite really appreciating their unitone equivalent for suits. I feel single sport coats are best done with a pattern/texture. At the moment...
  4. Z

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    on the topic of 300K, the yen has lost a lot of value and for many years Japanese businesses did not adapt their pricing. However recently they did, with a vengeance. Case in point are fine dining establishments: 30K used to be the high end, now we are easily over 50/60 with some even venturing...
  5. Z

    Viola Milano - Horrible Experience - resolved to the satisfaction of the customer.

    EDIT.
  6. Z

    Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

    I am a keen photographer and this image has been warmed up and otherwise -well, but strongly- retouched. Thus I would not consider the tone of the scarf to be authentic to nature.
  7. Z

    European shoemakers (excl. England)

    quality of leather.
  8. Z

    European shoemakers (excl. England)

    Velasca is quite an odd company, they seem to outsource a lot of their work and have little to no command of their supply chain. My experience was to be notified for a model, then hearing since summer 2023 that it would come "soon". On the other hand, TLB is really a great company, the oxford...
  9. Z

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    to my knowledge, they stopped that range, or even the whole company went bust. Did they restart?
  10. Z

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    same here, total of 6, no snags yet.
  11. Z

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    fabric is heavier.
  12. Z

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    I strongly vouch for Spring Ram. Have several suits made in it, my take. Excellent drape and wrinkle resistance, lovely blues, but the greys have a mottling that is not so nice. I have a trouser made in heavy Fresco and that grey is much more uniform and pleasing.
  13. Z

    Opinions about this bespoke suit?

    the price says bespoke, the process not.
  14. Z

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    the Degliuomini ladies are quite fine saleswomen. They have hefty margins, notably if you consider anything vintage they have comes from firesales of closing tailors bought per weight (kg). I stopped going since I was accumulating cloths I didn't "fund", but in fairness to their shop, it is...
  15. Z

    Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy

    I agree with you, I was replying to the above poster that stated it was strange (for me?) to think that a company offering expensive shoes and having long lead times, could not be very successful financially.
  16. Z

    Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy

    EG posted 2023 results some weeks ago and is operating at 4.7% net margin, which I think is astonishingly low for a luxury company selling, 1'000+ GBP shoes. As per their own words: "the challenging retail environment continues to produce volatility and uncertainty for our business. Wholesale...
  17. Z

    Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy

    I also feel the unlined trend might be a clever way to increase the margins, since as a reminder to us all who like EG, their financials are not really incredible. Also, it seems that few users are comparing EG lined to EG unlined, but instead bought EG unlined and liked it. This I cannot...
  18. Z

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    as to the crease resistance, I check that by taking fabric and squeezing it into a ball as tight and hard as I can. The good vintage fabrics don't even leave a hint of being treated like that. New ones rarely so.
  19. Z

    Shirtmaker in Rome or Napoli

    for your reference, if using UK cloth, an Italian tailor is now looking at at least 400 EUR/trousers to break even. Considering the low volume, I think unfortunately some might need to margin twice, ie. 800 EUR.
  20. Z

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    thank you, what do you think is the crease resistance? I buy open weave vintage often for that alone.
  21. Z

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    thank you, I appreciate the efforts to compare. Just to clarify, my LGB transaction was years ago, when I started my bespoke adventure and thus was clueless. This recent T&L cloth I believe it is 400gr, as there is a merchant stating the weight (my previous private transaction didn't mention...
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