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Search results
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Is gabardine considered a flannel?
There are two types of flannel, woolen and worsted. woolen has more nap, looks fuzzy and no visible weave. worsted doesn't have a fuzzy appearance and has a slightly visible twill weave. woolen is softer than worsted. didn't watch the video, don’t know what was said- Despos
- Post #2
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
@jonathanS Every tailor has an opinion or point of view about their drafting system and where to put the shoulder seam. This is the way I've been drafting and cutting for about 40 years. It makes sense to me and I like the result. There is much disagreement on this subject. I put the seam at...- Despos
- Post #10,810
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
Not sure. Will wait and see the result of their adjustments.- Despos
- Post #10,809
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
Some tailors intentionally cut a more narrow shoulder when making spalla camicia with the intent that your shoulder will fill in the space that the sleeve head would have. Know some shirt makers think like this too.- Despos
- Post #13,088
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
The slight concave effect is from shaping of the canvass. A wedge is inserted in the canvass and the horse hair that creates the concave shape on these shoulders. If making a pagoda shoulder you adjust the grain line of the hymo and haircloth and stretch with an iron more than a regular...- Despos
- Post #13,087
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
Pure silk facing these days is over 200.00 a yard. The higher quality silk is very narrow. Only enough for one jacket from one yard. We put the silk on by hand after everything else is finished. It's the last thing we do except buttonholes. Pay my coat maker 50% more when making a tuxedo...- Despos
- Post #13,086
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
The only time you "tighten the collar" is when your neck size is smaller in relation to your chest size. The yoke of the back collar is calculated by your chest size, not your neck size when drafting a pattern. If I understand correctly from the picture with the back seam pinned at the neck...- Despos
- Post #10,805
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
What is being said about rollino, sleeve heads, pagoda shoulders, iron work, shoulder expression etc. is not true. Lots of misconceptions and misuse of terms here. Not one accurate statement or concept of how these details are executed or the their effect. Beware! would/will clarify if I...- Despos
- Post #13,069
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
@ericgereghty The main limiting factor is the wedge cut under the pocket. Look inside the existing pocket for a narrow strip of lining sewn about an inch or two below the top of the pocket. This strip is covering the cut thru the cloth. With besom or flap pockets the wedge is cut at the...- Despos
- Post #10,795
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread
Tweeds are usually earth tones, not grey. Grey is not a versatile color for a sport coat. Sure they exist but rare to see a tweed DB jacket. Let Steed guide you and give you ideas.- Despos
- Post #39,571
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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High-twist wool with glen plaid pattern - okay for a sport coat?
Look at the other samples in the sample book. Are they for suits or jackets? Are there any other cloths in the book you would use for a jacket and not a suit? You will find sample books that are specific to suitings or jackets. Ask to see a sample book that is jacketing only. Some cloths can...- Despos
- Post #8
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Poulson & Skone shoe identification
What do you want to know beyond they are Poulson Skone? Have a pair from Poulson Skone made in the 80's. Showed the shoes to Tony Gaziano and he identified the individual who made them from the nail pattern. This person who made the shoe had a specific detail in his work that was sort of his...- Despos
- Post #2
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Double Breasted Style.
@fasyionewbie Jacket would be known as a sport coat or blazer or just called a jacket. There isn’t a term for the combination of jacket and trouser that isn’t a suit. It’s up to you to purchase each separately and create combinations of jackets and trousers you like. This applies to...- Despos
- Post #7,880
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
So…you can be bribed IMO, besom pockets on this one for a chic Italian vibe- Despos
- Post #12,883
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Question regarding no-break pant length . . .
i get why you refer to this as a gusset, tailoring jargon is calling this a crotch piece. Don‘t cut trousers with a crotch piece. Just make the pattern to the size needed for the size of the client. Would only add a crotch piece when altering or adjusting and there isn’t enough outlet. The thing...- Despos
- Post #34
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Question regarding no-break pant length . . .
Are you adding a piece of cloth at the crotch to let it out and make it bigger? Is that what a gusset is and what it does?- Despos
- Post #32
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Overcoat Thread
This looks really well made. Never heard of Sheets- Despos
- Post #1,433
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Overcoat Thread
Are you thinking the mannequin has gained weight?- Despos
- Post #1,432
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Help with bespoke wedding suit
Will you continue to wear the suit as part of your wardrobe after the wedding? Are your styling details part of how you currently dress? Have you considered making a linen suit? You say this will be your main suit. If so, you want it to be practical and useful for a variety of situations...- Despos
- Post #2
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
Interesting to me to see the variation of where the shoulder seam rests on the hanger. All different. Some are very forward and some are falling off the hanger towards the back. A few are in the middle or centered on the hanger- Despos
- Post #12,844
- Forum: Classic Menswear