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Search results
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Foot size to shoe size advice
It may not be a 'science' but it is a lot more complicated than people want to believe. First, true fit (in terms of length) is not determined from the back of the heel to the longest toe, it is determined from the back of the heel to the medial ball joint. Measuring heel to toe is just quick...- DWFII
- Post #13
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Alligator / Crocodile Shoes
FWIW, tail cut is the coarsest and the least supple of any cut on the alligator except belly cut (which leaves the heavy armoured tiles on the back exposed). Tail is more fragile, long term, as well. [shrug]- DWFII
- Post #1,678
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Bespoke Shoes Thread
Without a toe stiffener, every time the toe is collapsed like that, it creates a 'memory' in the leather. It won't take long before the creases in the toes area (esp. those parallel to the foot itself) are permanent. Not a good look, IMO. [shrug] 👣- DWFII
- Post #5,561
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Cowboy boots
I don't see anything wrong with it as long as there are no copyright issues...although these days no one seems to care enough about such things to make it a problem. Something that needs to be said...just for clarity...I'm no longer taking orders or actively making boots for anyone outside of...- DWFII
- Post #1,182
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Cowboy boots
Also...FYI https://www.styleforum.net/threads/cowboy-boots.1500/post-8241025 Post number #453- DWFII
- Post #1,180
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Cowboy boots
Never was asked to do a cactus inlay. Will roses do? Here are a few photos of some of my work. Beginning with post #315, 21Aug 2012 and continuing on the next page: https://www.styleforum.net/threads/cowboy-boots.1500/post-5684462 And: http://www.bootmaker.com/styles.htm (click thumbs for...- DWFII
- Post #1,178
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Cowboy boots
For one thing, although it may not be immediately evident to the 'untutored' eye, every maker develops his own style... almost unconsciously. I can near-as-nevermind recognize the work of a particular maker of a boot (although I never set out to) just by looking at the way the tops sit on the...- DWFII
- Post #1,176
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Bespoke Shoes Thread
Well , so am it...maybe December. But $1k isn't a lot to pay for a pair of bespoke shoes, esp. if the fit is good. Sometimes experience counts for more than procedure or length of procedure. I take extensive measurements...not wanting to leave any stone untouched. But other makers... some...- DWFII
- Post #5,545
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Bespoke Shoes Thread
No two feet are identical even on the same person. Maybe "good enough for government work"... but is that what you want from a bespoke shoe? Just making the attempt to get it right, is better than assuming...IMO.- DWFII
- Post #5,539
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Shoe care: conditioning interior surfaces of shoes?
Well, it's homogenized neatsfoot if anything (and maybe other compounds--Lexol and Bick4 are extremely reticent to reveal the actual contents)...and that makes all the difference. Ordinary neatsfoot, if it is natural, is greasy--it will collect and hold dirt. If only because it is not readily...- DWFII
- Post #14
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Shoe care: conditioning interior surfaces of shoes?
I don't think there is a strict schedule. Maybe three times a year?...but if the leather looks dry a light conditioner such a Bick4 can be used any time. The real issue with shoes is to keep them clean, esp. if you are using wax or greasy conditioners. Even cream polishes can collect micro fine...- DWFII
- Post #11
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Shoe care: conditioning interior surfaces of shoes?
^ This. I recommend Bick4 or Lexol... you can use either several times a year. Avoid greasy or waxy conditioners.- DWFII
- Post #8
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Meermin Chelsea Boot creasing…
The photos are hard to understand--in one shot it looks like the finish is damaged, in another, only the creasing is apparent. A fair example of why really top-notch bespoke shoes are made from only the best areas of the hide--roughly 30%--much of the rest is marginal (offal or nearly so) and...- DWFII
- Post #9
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Meermin Chelsea Boot creasing…
FWIW... poor quality leather can be a factor, but, generally speaking, leather will only crease where the foot flexes or where the fit is off enough to create some slack. IMO....- DWFII
- Post #4
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Bespoke Shoes Thread
If the newly formed foot has no arch, the more likely that even a straight-edge laid flat, alongside, would touch flesh the whole length. Look at your baby book. At one point in time, someone (a pediatrician? the delivering hospital?) would have 'printed' the foot. I dunno if they still do...- DWFII
- Post #5,520
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Bespoke Shoes Thread
When we are born and when we are young, and when the foot is as close to its natural shape as it will ever be....the foot will be straight along the medial aspect--a straight-edge laid from the heel to the large toe will be touching flesh the entire length. Wearing shoes that do not fit...- DWFII
- Post #5,518
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Bespoke Shoes Thread
It's kind of an odd rule of thumb. And kind of misleading, esp. if you are interested in the 'inner workings' and how it all comes together. In the first place, if a fitter's model (trial shoe) is made, then any variance from a proper fit should be obvious to a well-schooled maker. That's not...- DWFII
- Post #5,516
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."
I saw your IG posts and applaud you for doing this. Carreducker was/is a fine place to train. I don't know if you plan on making shoes in the future (good luck if you do) but the real take away...for the rest of your life...will probably be how 'insubstantial' manufactured shoes are by...- DWFII
- Post #2,973
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy
FWIW, It is possible to use a standard curved needle outsole stitching machine (the kind commonly seen in repair shops) to cut a channel into a rubber outsole. This is done simultaneously with stitching the outsole. And, effectively it both hides and protects the stitching in a way that a...- DWFII
- Post #40,894
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy
I am sure that more than one pair of shoes can be gotten from a calfskin...esp. since what is labeled a "calf" these days is, generally, speaking older, coarser, and larger than calfskins of bygone days. I think it's Thornton who says that in the 50's (?) premium calf would have been less than...- DWFII
- Post #40,891
- Forum: Classic Menswear