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  1. bengal-stripe

    OFFICIAL Simon Crompton thread (PermanentStyle.com)

    I would place it a few decades earlier: A Bolshevik rebel facing a tzarist execution squad
  3. bengal-stripe

    ** Quintessential Crockett & Jones Thread ** (reviews, quality, etc...)

    I wonder where C&J got the inspiration for the Aldershot, may be here? In 2013 John Lobb (Paris) showed a collection of bespoke shoes to represent the "Spirit of the Cities". This particular model represented London:
  4. bengal-stripe

    ** Quintessential Crockett & Jones Thread ** (reviews, quality, etc...)

    Sorry, wrong quote. Please delete!
  5. bengal-stripe

    Berluti bespoke - any experience

    It's one of three logos Gerberei Martin in Tuttlingen/Germany uses. Whether the choice of one or the other logo indicates different quality levels, I wouldn't know. https://shoegazing.com/2021/11/04/report-gerberei-martin-traditional-oak-bark-sole-leather-tannery/ I'm surprised Berluti uses a...
  6. bengal-stripe

    Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy

    Here you are! EG "Malvern made for Louis Boston (Mid 90s?) on last 33 with "half-moon" detail: Here are the differences between the "old" and the "new" Oxford pattern. Both shoes are last 202 in D fitting. But there is a difference in size: Black shoe is new pattern in (English) size 8 1/2...
  7. bengal-stripe

    Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy

    Yes, EG certainly used this way of adding reinforcement to the vamp point. I've just checked my shoes and I found three pairs from the mid-90s sporting that feature. I believe it was a standard of the "old Oxford". Sometime in the mid-90s, the standard pattern for all Oxford shoes got revised...
  8. bengal-stripe

    Church's Appreciation Thread

    Church's was acquired by Prada in 1999. Post-Prada the shoes carried not only London, Paris, New York but also had Milan added. That would be another pointer towards mid-to-late Nineties.
  9. bengal-stripe

    Canons (London) bespoke shoes

    Here are a few historical prices for shoes, bespoke and premium ready-to-wear. Source is an article in the 'Financial Times' from about 1998. Bespoke shoes: Jason Amesbury £1000 GJ Cleverley & Co £1000 Foster & Son £1110 John Lobb (London) £1490 (without VAT) Poulsen Skone (New & Lingwood)...
  10. bengal-stripe

    Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy

    Here is a good introduction into 'gemming', the textile rib to which the welt gets attached in the vast majority of machine-made shoes. Gemming was introduced in the 1950s and can't be as bad as some claim, as millions of shoes have been produced since then...
  11. bengal-stripe

    Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy

    'Castorino' by Tannery Zonta, a 'reversed calf' is generally considered (at least in West-End bespoke shoemaking circles) to be the first choice for premium suede. It is reversed: the grain side, undisturbed, is left in place and gives far more stability to the leather than inferior 'velour'...
  12. bengal-stripe

    Help with Cleverley

    Adam Law is no longer working with Cleverley. Instagram.com: adamlawshoemaker
  13. bengal-stripe

    Berluti bespoke - any experience

    Is this the same job that was measured on March 25th? To complete an order for a bespoke pair of shoes in just four month must be a world record. And a lovely pair they turned out to be.
  14. bengal-stripe

    Best High-Grade, OTC, Hand-Linked Socks Internationally? Please help.

    For those who haven't seen it before, here is a video showing the process of hand linking (by machine): At one time hearing "hand-linking" I did imagine little old ladies with crochet hooks doing the connection of the toe seam literally by hand. Unfortunately the truth is more prosaic, the...
  15. bengal-stripe

    Canons (London) bespoke shoes

    The firm is a follow-up from Foster & Son. Foster went bust, venturing with Japanese money into ready-to-wear did kill them. Canons was founded by Simon Bolzoni who was once a lastmaker for Foster. I seem to remember that the new firm started off as Foster, but they had to rename themselves as...
  16. bengal-stripe

    Advice for shoes for wide feet

    The 'width' of a shoe is the circumference of the last, not the width from left to right. Whenever you change the 'width' the circumference changes, the left/right measurement of the insole (Brandsohle) will changes accordingly, about 1 1/2 mm either wider or narrower. That change is so small...
  17. bengal-stripe

    Lumps in shoe sole

    The 'lumps' are the heads of the nails which go through the insole and hold the heel in place. They are covered-up by the 'sock' (insole liner) and usually a little pad of foam or felt. Those EG shoes, judging by the design of the EG logo, are very old, mid- to late 80s I would guess. It is...
  18. bengal-stripe

    Church's Appreciation Thread

    You might well be right. That absurd price increase of a year or two ago did make matters only worse. They certainly are not in a good place: https://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/markets/article-11202043/Luxury-shoe-brand-Churchs-heel-sales-slide.html
  19. bengal-stripe

    Thoughts on Camel-Hair Polo Coats?

    Thanks to the largesse of Norma Desmond, Joe Gillis' (William Holden) overcoat is a few more steps up from a humble camel hair coat; it's made from vicuna. Gillis obviously took the advice of the sales man "As long as the lady is paying, why not take the vicuna."
  20. bengal-stripe

    Bespoke Shoemaker Szuba - official affiliate thread

    Here are my seamless wholecuts which were made in 2009. That's the way they looked back then, about a year ago I had them colour-refreshed by Samuel Norsworthy (a really talented guy): They are the same ones which @j ingevaldsson in his comprehensive essay on seamless wholecuts identified...
  21. bengal-stripe

    Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

    "Transparent plastic trial shoes" is a method quite popular in Germany. Prepare the last, lay a sheet of plastic over the last and in a box, using heat and vacuum, the plastic forms to the shape of the last. Put that over the clients foot to see how well, or how badly, the fit is. I don't...
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