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Search results

  1. RJman

    The End of the Sartorial Road

    Bryan Johnson, welcome to Style Forvm. more srsly, for true heads the chase never ends, because we will always be empty inside chasing the chimerical kop that will somehow magically make us whole. Less quest for the holy grail and more Calvino's Count of Monte Cristo.
  2. RJman

    The End of the Sartorial Road

    I'm not _that_ old man.
  3. RJman

    Paris thread

    The French blue is the typical work jacket/work shirt color, but honestly I think that you should pick the color that makes you happy! re restaurants I'm a pretty lowkey dude and nowadays pretty touristy in my eating habits in Paris. Emily in Paris has caused ludicrous lines to get into old...
  4. RJman

    French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

    On another note, Marc de Luca of Camps de Luca just was inaugurated into the Legion of Honor in France.
  5. RJman

    Why does men's fashion come mostly from England and Italy (and America)? Why not France, Germany, Holland, Spain, Austria, etc?

    I mean, Italy remade itself after World War II consciously to create a new image of fashion and flair - the first Pitti shows were about that. And it rode the cult of the designer starting with Pucci and such in the 1950s for women to Armani's coronation at the end of the 1970s. The English...
  6. RJman

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    You know it!
  7. RJman

    French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

    Cifo’s been doing the trips to New York longer, plus for over 20 years they’ve been able to get their name out through things like licensed ready to wear that used to be sold at Wilkes Bashford and Neiman Marcus. I think Camps de Luca travels to NY at least two or maybe three times a year.
  8. RJman

    French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

    Dunno. I think it’s just an incredibly tough environment to be an independent custom tailor or shoemaker in Paris rn especially one without a lot of history. Rents are really high and the trend for dressiness is going away except for a few weirdos and enthusiasts like us. I know that Suzuki...
  9. RJman

    French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

    Yeah some of us had noticed his Paris business had gone into liquidation a little while ago: https://www.societe.com/societe/kenjiro-suzuki-sur-mesure-paris-790962187.html
  10. RJman

    French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

    Quite possibly, although the lapel design doesn’t quite look like theirs. French outfitter Julien Scavini had a fascinating guide to the different variants of notches favored by Parisian tailors and shops: https://stiff-collar.com/2012/05/28/les-revers-parisiens/...
  11. RJman

    French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

    Well, the entry on the content tag 100% Laine is French, which suggests the garment was made in Italy for a French brand, and the lapel shape is definitely a particular French style. Cifonelli doesn’t do that style generally, the Groupe des Cinq that promoted that lapel shape were in fact...
  12. RJman

    French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

    Interesting about repairs. I've had them recollar and cuff my shirts but I am a horribly insecure person so went full bespoke.
  13. RJman

    French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

    I read that as a full green alligator suede suit and was like OH YEAH
  14. RJman

    French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

    Back when we iGents (I guess the current term is menswear guys, thanks @dieworkwear ) used to meet up for shoe circles, I used to refer to our heterosexual partners as "style widows"...
  15. RJman

    French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

    The thing is that any tier is a grey area. It also depends based on what you mean. If you mean what shirt is the best of an off-the-rack selection at a Neiman Marcus in Frontenac, MO, then Charvet will be the best machine-made shirt - better than T&A. Borrelli used to pride itself on lots of...
  16. RJman

    French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

    At a guess, probably 7000-8000 euro, but you may want to contact them directly as there doesn't appear to be any recent pricing info for them online. BTW, Camps de Luca is going to be visiting NYC on October 13 - 15. The house says to contact it directly for appointments.
  17. RJman

    Fine cutlery, EDC, and pocket jewelry": Here we post reviews, recommendations, tips about and appreciation of.

    Alas, I've forgotten anything I knew about the steel. But the knife is a handmade one-off. I couldn't care less about the gold plating of the screws, it's a ridiculous flourish.

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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

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