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  1. Phil

    Polo Darlton Shoe:  Wingtip vs Plain Toe

    The plain toe comes across sleeker, on account of the lack of broughing. I wear both all the time, with so many different clothes. I consider them among my best purchases.
  3. Phil

    Polo Darlton Shoe:  Wingtip vs Plain Toe

    I own both. They are the same color. There is always some color variation in cordovan leather anyway.
  4. Phil

    Shoes that look better with wear

    The color of the shoes has an effect too. Im convinced that brown shoes invariably age better than black ones. Im talking about calfskin only, as I think black cordovans age beautifully.
  5. Phil

    unbuttoned sleeve

    Naturalaut - a pocket square serves a purpose, if albeit infrequently. I dont make a habit of using them for real things, since they are fairly expensive, but just a few weeks ago a friend of mine burst out crying upon hearing some bad news and I gave her my square to dry her eyes. I agree...
  6. Phil

    Pretreating shirts

    Oxyclean may be the best invention ever produced if you have children. As the dad of a 2 year old, I have found oxyclean has been a tremendous help. All you do is start the machine, put in the oxclean powder, throw in the clothes, and let them soak for like 30 min, more if the stains are worse...
  7. Phil

    Shortening neckties

    I would get it shortened if its too long. Arvi's suggestion sounds great. You cant just tell someone to use a windsor or something similar without alot of other information. * What if the material of the tie is thick? A windsor knot would make a huge knot and look silly to the wearer. *The...
  8. Phil

    Tie Knots

    Ive heard that many times, about Bond mistrusting anyone with a windsor tie knot. Note to James Bond fans - HES NOT A REAL PERSON. Id feel sorry for anyone who based their preference of tie knot on a fictional characters opinion.
  9. Phil

    Trousers lining

    Linen and cotton would be innapropriate lining materials because linings are supposed to be smooth and "slippery". Using cotton or linen would be totally against common sense in this regard. It would be like lining your pants with fine gauge sandpaper. Acetate, however, might work, who...
  10. Phil

    consistency of office dress

    Thats funny, Im the opposite of Montecristo. I like consistency. I think its a slight form of OCD maybe, who knows. Something about routine makes me calm, and in a business setting, confident. Not to say my way is better, there is no better in this case. Dressing, in general, is a way we show...
  11. Phil

    now here's an interestin Srow suit....

    Double breasted suits often had vests in the 20's and 30's. Sure, seems like overkill to me, but those were the days before good indoor heat and global warming.
  12. Phil

    wear from bag strap?

    You should never, under any circumstances, sling a strap over your shoulder while wearing a suit, or a soft sweater, that can be damaged. First of all, it looks terrible, because it pulls the cloth of the suit in all sorts of weird directions and makes the suit look unflattering. Secondly, that...
  13. Phil

    What is your lucky suit, and why?

    We all have one suit, the one we go to when we have that important meeting with a new client, a big date we have been planning etc. Im not as interested in the brand of suit you prefer, but instead the style it is, and why. For me, when I have to really look my best, I invariably wear this: -A...
  14. Phil

    Alden sizing

    I can say from personal experience that the sizing for Aldens vary quite a bit, depending on the last. Also, dont forget, it can depend on the leather. A shoe made from cordovan leather will take the shape of the last differently than the same shoe in calf. From my own dealings with Alden I can...
  15. Phil

    Do Alden cordovans ever go on sale?

    The Alden shop on 43rd and Madison has sales, twice a year I believe. They generally send out postcards in the mail, and its good for $50 off any cordovan shoes. The last one I can rememeber was in February (and I took advantage). Probably in the fall again.
  16. Phil

    How many of you wash your own dress shirts?

    I have gotten in the habit lately of washing my dress shirts at home, putting them in the dryer, and then ironing only the cuffs and collar. It gives them that rumpled look I enjoy.
  17. Phil

    Brooks Brothers ties

    If you get a good enough deal on one of the wide BB ties they are now offering, you can send it to Tiecrafters in NYC and they will resew it at the width you desire. Might be a 4 tie minumum for this service, but its an idea.
  18. Phil

    Suede shoes

    Yes, if someone tells you otherwise, they dont know what they are talking about. But, like anything, proportion should be noted. I wouldnt wear a chunky pair of suede brogues in the summer, just as I wouldnt wear a pair of chunky calfskin brogues in the summer, since their heft would look odd...
  19. Phil

    Cable Car Clothiers / Southwick Suits

    I tried on a variety of Press suits. The shoulders were all WAY too padded for my taste. Keep in mind most of my suits are RL and Isaia, which basically have no padding. Im sure in the big scheme of things the padding at Press wasnt excessive, but in comparison to what a "natural&quot...
  20. Phil

    Cable Car Clothiers / Southwick Suits

    Yes, comparing prices with other Southwick goods, I can see the upcharge at Cable Car.
  21. Phil

    Cable Car Clothiers / Southwick Suits

    Well, I took the plunge and ordered one of their Poplin cotton suits. Poly/cotton, washable. Gray. I will report on it when it comes in the mail next week.
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