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  1. j ingevaldsson

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    Not sure I follow what you mean exactly. You're thinking taking a RTW shoe and resole it on a bespoke last? If so, those RTW lasts would have to be very similar to your bespoke lasts for the pattern to work out well, so much so that the RTW would have to fit you so well that it wouldn't be worth...
  3. j ingevaldsson

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    Yup, my feet has changed too from when I got some of my first bespoke pairs, due to running a lot during a couple of years, gaining weight and aging. So I have had a few pairs relasted onto my updated lasts. RTW pairs from that time I've had to sell, can't modify them to the same degree.
  4. j ingevaldsson

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    As I've tried to describe, sure, probably 10% of first bespoke pairs end up badly, BUT, in most of those cases they would be remade or otherwise fixed so that the customer is satisfied. Again, always exceptions, but they are just that, exceptions. On the second paragraph, I assumed it would be...
  5. j ingevaldsson

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    I don't think that "the horrendous extra charge, the dilated times and the risks connected" is hard to misunderstand, but if that wasn't what you meant, maybe don't write it ;)
  6. j ingevaldsson

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    Of course they are expensive, because the amount of time that goes into them is very high, plus materials are higher cost (a relatively small amount of the price for bespoke though). They are expensive, but it's not the same thing as "horrendous extra charge". Totally understand that they cost...
  7. j ingevaldsson

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    The more standard ones feet are, the less need for bespoke there is, of course. Especially if it's full handmade RTW with a last that suit you very well, and if they are made with proper leather stiffeners, ideally long such, some feet can come very long with RTW. Most likely not all the way...
  8. j ingevaldsson

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    How did you draw those conclusions from what I wrote? It's so totally off. A good first bespoke shoe should basically always be better than all RTW, MTO or even MTM shoes, and to my experience that is also the case (of course, always exceptions, but they are just that, exceptions). The OP's...
  9. j ingevaldsson

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    Glad to hear that, cheers! Absolutely. Although I do like some of the old-style Italian bespoke and those who do nice updated interpretations of this, like Akira Tani and Calzoleria Carlino, and some of the more toned down French ones, like John Lobb Paris and Philippe Atienza.
  10. j ingevaldsson

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    All the bespoke makers I use regularly are world-class makers, but sure, my personal top four list would be: 1. Yohei Fukuda 2. Main d'Or 3. Catella Shoemaker (previously G&G, but I basically followed allt things G&G to Catella when Daniel Wegan left). 4. Hiro Yanagimachi Hehe no need for...
  11. j ingevaldsson

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    Sorry that you are so displeased with your bespoke order. Some thoughts I have: - As others have stated, never order more than one pair for a first, you always will have changes made for consecutive ones and many of them might not be noticeable until after proper wear. - Always best to have...
  12. j ingevaldsson

    Berluti bespoke - any experience

    Here's a report on Berluti's bespoke I wrote a few years ago, most highly valid still. I also did a podcast episode with Jean-Michel Casalonga where we went even more in-depth in some topics.
  13. j ingevaldsson

    Poszetka brand – experience?

    Haven't tried their tailoring, but I bought their field jacket a couple of years ago, it's made in Poland, and quality is excellent for the price. This one:
  14. j ingevaldsson

    Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy

    Thanks for the kind words on the blog! Just a note, the article you refer to talks about lasted shoe trees only, for generic ones, one can't really say anything on which size to go with since it varies as much there as it do with shoes. There one should read the sellers guidelines. For lasted...
  15. j ingevaldsson

    Paul Sargent (formerly Alfred Sargent) Appreciation Thread

    Sorry, but it's hard to follow, since you seem to contradict yourself. In you original post, you stated one shoe had this issue. Now it's four in total? And you talk about creasing, but a crease occurs when you fold or bend something. During making the shoes have a last in them, you can't crease...
  16. j ingevaldsson

    Paul Sargent (formerly Alfred Sargent) Appreciation Thread

    I think it looks like a stretch mark on that photo too, if it's over the stiffener or not doesn't affect that at all, and stretch marks can be long. But if you say it's identical on all sides of both shoes, it sounds weird. But I don't get what your cobbler mean with the lining "shifted during...
  17. j ingevaldsson

    Paul Sargent (formerly Alfred Sargent) Appreciation Thread

    That looks like a stretch mark, nothing else. Can't really be "fixed", but with wear and tear these always becomes less visible. Is it acceptable? Hard to say from just these photos.
  18. j ingevaldsson

    TLB MALLORCA - OFFICIAL AFFILIATE THREAD - Advice, sizing and reviews

    Of course. You have 21% VAT, as you have on all common goods in Spain. The RRP for Artista in EU is €445. It's only non-EU citizens who can deduct this (but then in most cases pay customs and duties upon import).
  19. j ingevaldsson

    Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

    Not that difficult, you go by train to Matsudo station, from there either bus and walk, or taxi (definitely more convenient). Takes about an hour in total from Tokyo station.
  20. j ingevaldsson

    Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

    Cost of living is (for most) lower in Japan than in the UK or France, so prices have always been lower there, and the country has seen very little to no inflation for many, many years now (highly problematic on many regards, of course). That's why the Japanese makers are so competitive. It's the...
  21. j ingevaldsson

    Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

    It's a very remote location in Chiba, a house where he has showroom and workshop on the bottom floor, and lives on the top floor. His wife also work full time, so they have double income. And they basically spend no money on anything, just their young daughter. He certainly doesn't have rich...
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