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  1. ballmouse

    Group Buy: Turtlenecks, Made in NYC

    I'm not sure if anyone is still following this thread. If you are or are just interested in what sweater design is like, continue reading. The factory (or, more of a studio to be exact) I've been working with since the last post has been excellent. In fact, sometimes I feel like they're reading...
  2. ballmouse

    Hertling Trousers

    From what I heard, they had a number of loans that needed to be repaid and didn't have the money to do so. In fact, I asked if it was a lack of orders and I heard that they actually had plenty and not enough labor (in the end there were only 4-5 employees in MA instead of the 2 dozen or so 5...
  3. ballmouse

    Group Buy: Turtlenecks, Made in NYC

    Hi ruvort. Things are working out well. Just tried on the latest sample at the factory and it's much closer to what I envisioned. The neck area needs some tweaking and I want to try on the garment again now that I'm home to see if anything else needs to be done, but it's a lot closer than what...
  4. ballmouse

    Group Buy: Turtlenecks, Made in NYC

    Wow! I suppose I'm embarrassed that I've left you all in the state where you need to ask (though I am slightly pleased that someone cared enough to resurrect this thread)! Long story short: I'm not working with the knitwear manufacturer I found anymore. I go into more depth in my podcast (The...
  5. ballmouse

    Bespoke Trouser Pricing

    It's likely the tailor is paying for labor based on the price of jackets, which are higher than trousers. To have those same laborers work on trousers is less profitable and the price of them is probably both a deterrent to keep the labor working on higher margin items and to keep the margin...
  6. ballmouse

    Joe McCoy T-Shirt Size M (38-40)

    Rarely worn (I think this has been sitting in my closet for 8 years or so). This is a heavyweight cotton. It feels nicer and more substantial than other t-shirt cotton I've felt. Even though it measures 19" across the chest, I think this would be better suited for a size 40. I'm a size 38 and...
  7. ballmouse

    Joe McCoy T-Shirt Size M (38-40)

    ballmouse submitted a new classified: Joe McCoy T-Shirt Size M (38-40) - From ~2013. Rarely worn. Nice luxurious, heavyweight cotton! Read more about this classified...
  8. ballmouse

    A Discussion Thread for Swan Songs

    SAB definitely gave the impression of changed ownership because there was no way an old institution would have such a tiny storefront unless something happened along the way. Oddly enough, the Smith shop had countless folks dropping in and out both days I visited. A number of sales were made...
  9. ballmouse

    A Discussion Thread for Swan Songs

    I visited London just prior to the pandemic and went to SAB. It was not the old English establishment I was expecting. It was a very small store with bright lights under the supervision of a single store assistant who I expected was a model. Very nice and pleasant to look at, but not exactly the...
  10. ballmouse

    Group Buy: Turtlenecks, Made in NYC

    A bit of a curveball here. There's actually a decent amount of navy about to be ready, but not enough that the factory can start production. However, if we supplement the navy with any of the following, we could start the order in January and get them out by March/April. Essentially we'd get the...
  11. ballmouse

    Group Buy: Turtlenecks, Made in NYC

    Yes that's an option as are some other colors. I limited it to green, red, and white because I thought they'd be the most the most popular along with navy. But maybe that's not necessarily true. I took a photo of the yarn card with all the available colors. Since I'm not getting any heavy...
  12. ballmouse

    Group Buy: Turtlenecks, Made in NYC

    Yes the sweater photos are slightly bright. I think the images of all the colors is the closest as I copied the image from the vendor page and color corrected (in a very amateur way - hence the white looks faded) the image to match the physical yarn cards I received from them. Unfortunately...
  13. ballmouse

    Group Buy: Turtlenecks, Made in NYC

    The latest sample in Navy. I had to essentially redo the whole process from scratch when I found another factory in NYC, but the sweater is arguably nicer (the new factory has machines that eliminate the seams on the insides of sweaters). The price is going to be a bit higher (probably...
  14. ballmouse

    How to dress well in CM without standing out too much

    Found this clip the other day. Seemed to be analogous for this thread.
  15. ballmouse

    How to dress well in CM without standing out too much

    Kirk Douglas with a tucked in sweater. I think it was probably a lot more common in the olden days. Most people probably were still wearing jackets so no one would have seen your sweater was tucked in until you were in the appropriate situation where you could take off your jacket.
  16. ballmouse

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    My first pair of bespoke shoes was very good. I had never worn shoes so comfortable before. That said, I did pick up a few areas of improvement for later shoes. It helped that he was very communicative and receptive to feedback. That can't be said for a lot of bespoke craftsman (shoe, suits...
  17. ballmouse

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    It probably affects both if the pants are not probably shaped for your backside.
  18. ballmouse

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    If I had to hazard a guess, the seat seam in the center back has to be modified. But there isn't a picture of that so I can't tell.
  19. ballmouse

    Are dress shoes worth maiming yourself for?

    To answer your thread title question, no. Speaking with a bespoke shoemaker, I learned that you should find shoes that fit (possible conflict of interest with that advice of course, but it's common sense). I've seen some of his lasts and I wonder how many of his customers could have worn RTW...

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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

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