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Recent content by Lensmaster
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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations
To people who don't want to dress up anyway. To the rest of us black tie requires a black bow tie. As far as the idea that you can wear tuxedo pieces in various forms for events that are just dressy, that is true. But that is a whole other forum.- Lensmaster
- Post #11,439
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations
Many people today have the image in their head that a very close fit, almost tight, is the proper look, and anything looser is baggy. Classic fit is not some specific dimensions that will look off on someone who is skinny or large. That impression can sadly be reinforced with some off the rack...- Lensmaster
- Post #11,329
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations
A fly front shirt is not ideal because that is a day shirt. A formal french cuff shirt is the standard. Yes, pictures can be found of men wearing fly front shirts with a dinner jacket. Excluding those who don't know any better, those are men who wore black tie almost every evening and so it was...- Lensmaster
- Post #11,288
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations
Black tie is appropriate in the evening. Yes, in the summer daylight remains well into evening. That is why the rule came about to classify the evening as starting at 6pm. That is when the workday is done and evening activities are starting. So even when daylight remains for several hours after...- Lensmaster
- Post #11,287
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations
I am just catching up on the last couple months here. The size of someone's ass has no bearing on the fit of a jacket. When standing the vents, whether single or double, should hang closed. Your jacket should hang exactly the same as if you have an unvented jacket. If the vents are separating to...- Lensmaster
- Post #11,255
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Forward or Reverse Pleats and WHY
It seems on me that reverse pleats balloon across my crotch and make me look paunchy. Forward facing pleats pull the material closer to my body across the front.- Lensmaster
- Post #42
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations
Men you see in pictures wearing notch lapel dinner jackets are men who wear dinner jackets frequently. They probably own a few jackets. A notch lapel gives them a bit of variety in an outfit that doesn't have a lot of options. I say for someone getting their first or second dinner jacket get...- Lensmaster
- Post #9,989
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations
Definitely go with a slimmer watch.- Lensmaster
- Post #9,925
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations
If you compare a vintage formal shirt to a current shirt, the vintage had two or three studs, the current shirts have four.- Lensmaster
- Post #9,667
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations
As casual as society is now dressing up at all will make you stand out. There are no appropriate places for black tie. Wherever you go in the evening in black tie is appropriate. No one questions why so many men go out to dinner in jeans, t-shirts, and baseball caps.- Lensmaster
- Post #9,634
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations
Unless your pants have a rise that meets your fastening button how do you ensure that your shirt and waistband won't show as you are moving around? James Bond looks messy without a cummerbund.- Lensmaster
- Post #9,632
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations
Just like today that is marketing. They didn't care about customs, just sales. If you convince people they can wear something all day you sell more product.- Lensmaster
- Post #9,269
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations
I would not go to the expense of having one made, but after years of looking I found vintage tails and matching pants on Ebay and bought that. That money was worth the annual NYE party I wear it to, and my someday dream trip to an Austrian formal ball.- Lensmaster
- Post #9,205
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations
Interesting technique. It looks basically like doing the traditional manner backwards so you are going through in front instead of back. Do men usually push the end of the tie through the loop in the traditional manner? I don't remember what video I learned from but I push the loop through, only...- Lensmaster
- Post #9,132
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations
In the 1927 movie Hula Clive Brook wears a dinner jacket with white pants. Seems to have been a tropical variation for a while.- Lensmaster
- Post #8,886
- Forum: Classic Menswear