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Recent content by j-mac

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  1. j-mac

    Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

    Just a little info about turnshoes, there is a seam inside right at the edge where the upper and sole meet, its hardly noticeable and the sewing is fine not likely to irritate the foot and a small liner of leather is put in the forepart covering it all. Modern leathers can be turned ,one just...
  2. j-mac

    Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

    Thanks for good explanations Shoefan . A stitching awl can only be used in limited situations , if you put any twist on them they break so they are used on the foreparts of normal welted shoes, the stitch shape is also nice if done well. For blind welts, bevelled waists, turn shoes ,french pump...
  3. j-mac

    Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

    You have explained that very well Shoefan , no need for me to add anything :)
  4. j-mac

    Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

    My photo shows a method for a mans dress shoe, there are other techniques for different types of shoe or boot. Heavier shoes or boots can have a welted seat but this cannot be trimmed as tight . Riding and field boots have a "german seat" which is a split lift sewn in and trimmed tight and then...
  5. j-mac

    Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

    This is how I do it, I saw it done 2 or 3 different ways during my apprenticeship and chose this method as I like the way it pulls the leather in around the seat.
  6. j-mac

    Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

    I'm sure your boot heels are excellent and yes I have pegged heels together I prefer nails , the rust issue has not degraded shoes I have worked on maybe the beeswax is a help. I have worked repairing pre my formal training and also in my early years to suppliment my income.Every material has...
  7. j-mac

    Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

    Yes a maker has to choose, I choose nails you choose pegs.The reason I choose nails is that I don't encounter the same damage you have seen , I like the way they hold work together solidly and when I repair the shoes I don't find wear and tear to be anything but normal ,so that is my reason to...
  8. j-mac

    Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

    I've been a shoemaker in and around the west end of London for 42 years and this is my take on the nails v pegs debate.I use nails of various kinds and metals.I understand the tradition for pegs came from the work boot /country style of shoes and boots and was used in eastern Europe a lot ( and...
  9. j-mac

    Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

    I measure pretty much the same as Nicholas which is hardly surprising as we were schooled at the same place, I don't have a problem with makers collecting as much info as they need, we all work in slightly different ways. I also worked with Terry Moore of Fosters for many years and learned a...
  10. j-mac

    Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

    DW, our paths have met before.I used to post on the CC forum a few years back . I have no problem with the thin stick on sole, shoes are 8 years old and seem fine. Just a comment on the bespoke trade here in the UK and Europe, the interest in bespoke making from the younger generation has...
  11. j-mac

    Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

    I made a little typo which I have corrected to " I accept that some shoes may have been damaged " and by this I meant that if done incorrectly or without thought then yes one could damage a shoe in fitting a toeplate.I only offer a perspective from my shoemaking experience as a maker who fits...
  12. j-mac

    Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

    I think I may have been misunderstood,I did specify my comments to bespoke work and the fitting of plates in the initial making, As a UK maker I fit these very often and I have not had a problem flagged up to me and if I thought I deliberately damaged my work I would try and prevent this.I...
  13. j-mac

    Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

    If fitting a toeplate during the making of bespoke shoes all the maker has to do is make the groove for the stitches deeper around the toe so they can sit further into the sole, then when the inset for the plate is cut the stitches don't get touched.The screws are small and nearly always brass...
  14. j-mac

    HOF: Labels, heels and nail patterns - Secrets to ID the maker

    I suspect they are a pair of Foster and Son bespoke shoes that have been resoled by a non bespoke / hand craft repairer. My reason for thinking this is that looks very like Terry Moores handwriting and the number system that of Fosters bespoke. Another little clue is, do you see where the...
  15. j-mac

    Introduce yourself.

    Hello all, I am an outworker for some of the west end bespoke shoemakers, I've been drawn in to post about the Tuczek discussion over on Classic Menswear and I'm generally interested in bespoke footwear and high end shoes and boots.
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