Planning an MTM cream/off white linen suit. General design guidelines?

[SpaceFunk]

Hi everyone,

I'm thinking of ordering a made to measure cream linen suit for summer/spring occasions. Is there a general consensus for the details in this kind of suit?

I was thinking for fabric a herringbone cream linen, less than 300gsm. For the design, around 4" peak lapels with a bit of belly (too rakish maybe?) with gorge maybe just below collar bone, patch pockets, double vent, natural shoulders. Also 3 roll 2 single breasted and maybe 3 button cuffs. For the trousers, side adjusters, pleats and cuffs. Anything I've missed?

Also one problem I'm slightly worried about is seeing the pocket sleeves in the trousers due to the transparency of cream linen in particularly bright environments. What's the best way to remedy this?

Thanks.
L

 

[Bromley]

Cool. Sounds like you have a good idea of the overall style. I haven't encountered too many linen herringbone fabrics that would work well for pants, though (it's too stretchy, and bags at the knees with wear). A heavyish plain weave linen (12-14 oz) will hold up well, and there shouldn't be much issue of seeing pockets through the cloth. Good luck.

 

[comrade]

It should be comfortable even when moving a river boat over land.

 

[Andy57]

Cool. Sounds like you have a good idea of the overall style. I haven't encountered too many linen herringbone fabrics that would work well for pants, though (it's too stretchy, and bags at the knees with wear). A heavyish plain weave linen (12-14 oz) will hold up well, and there shouldn't be much issue of seeing pockets through the cloth. Good luck.

This is good advice. Herringbone linen doesn't hold it's shape well. Trousers made from it (especially lightweight linen) won't hold a crease and by the end of a day they will look like two shapeless sacks on your legs.