Article about neapolitan tailoring in wapo

jcusey · Nov 11, 2003

I've never heard of Luigi Cimmino, but I thought that this article about Neapolitan tailoring in the Washington Post was nonetheless interesting.

matadorpoeta · Nov 11, 2003

good read. the customer's name is "belladonna?" c'mon.
i believe a man's suit should not have any shoulder padding whatsoever. whoever invented those things? and why do people continue to wear them? the neapolitans have my esteem.

Alias · Nov 11, 2003

Shoulder pads probably help the jacket drape better off the shoulders. I know mine aren't exactly chiseled out of marble.

Sevcom · Nov 11, 2003

i believe a man's suit should not have any shoulder padding whatsoever. whoever invented those things? and why do people continue to wear them? the neapolitans have my esteem.

I like the pitched shoulder on Brioni suits just fine.

LA Guy · Nov 11, 2003

believe a man's suit should not have any shoulder padding whatsoever. whoever invented those things? and why do people continue to wear them?

Judicious use of shoulder pads can help shape and flatter an imperfect physique. Besides, most suits have at least a minimal amount of padding in the structure, even most Neapolitan ones. As in all things, good judgement needs to be used. Even shoulder pads, same as khakis and polo shirts, have a place in a guy's closet

Stu · Nov 11, 2003

Whoa. Did I just read that right? LA Guy saying khakis can be acceptable? LAG: Am I now going to read you saying loafers are OK for casual wear. VBG

matadorpoeta · Nov 11, 2003

Shoulder pads probably help the jacket drape better off the shoulders. I know mine aren't exactly chiseled out of marble.

the shape of the suit should relate to the shape of the man's body. many tailors will tell you that if you have one shoulder higher than the other, they can add more padding on one side for symmetry. this is the lazy way of doing it. the adjustment should be made when creating the pattern.

if you have small shoulders, like i do, that is all the more reason to avoid shoulder pads. they become like make-up; you'll look good with your jacket on, but when you take it off you look bad, like you were wearing a disguise.

my custom suits have been made without padding. the tailor may put something in there to aid construction, but if he does, it certainly doesn't "pad" the shoulder. my favorite suit is still the isaia i tried on a few months ago (which i could not afford)-no padding and the shoulder seam was on top of the shoulder, rather than jetting outward.

guys always say "i like my suit to look this way or that way" but to me the best ones are the those that make you look like you.

LA Guy · Nov 11, 2003

if you have small shoulders, like i do, that is all the more reason to avoid shoulder pads. they become like make-up; you'll look good with your jacket on, but when you take it off you look bad, like you were wearing a disguise.
...
uys always say "i like my suit to look this way or that way" but to me the best ones are the those that make you look like you.

Well, the best you possible. A good suit (and any well-suited piece of clothing) will accentuate your strengths and de-emphasize your weaknesses. BTW, your final statement only makes sense in the limited context of choosing clothing that is suitable to your physique, age, and personality. Don't be so peevish.

matadorpoeta · Nov 11, 2003

BTW, your final statement only makes sense in the limited context of choosing clothing that is suitable to your physique, age, and personality.

i agree. i meant it that way. though i'm not sure about the age part. if a sixty-year-old wants to dress like brad pitt, he is, in effect, expressing his personality.

as for the shoulder pad thing, it's just interesting to me that so few ever question the reasoning behind them. i'm sure 99% of men who have a suit never ask themselves "why are these shoulder pads here?" "are they necessary?" it is a convention that men's suits have them and therefore few think about it.
if a tailor were to ask if you'd like butt pads sewn into your pants, i suspect most men would say no. these same men wear shoulder pads without thinking twice about it.

just food for thought.

vero_group · Nov 11, 2003

Actually, I could use some butt pads.

LA Guy · Nov 12, 2003

though i'm not sure about the age part. if a sixty-year-old wants to dress like brad pitt, he is, in effect, expressing his personality.

You've been living in LA too long - lol. Seriously, though, those older guys - a disproportionate number of whom are involved in the industry somehow - with the Botox and perma-tans, are just plain sad. There is something to be said for ageing gracefully.

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Article about neapolitan tailoring in wapo

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