Which brands sanforize?

It struck me while reading the "How jeans fit" thread at the other SF that it might be useful to keep some sort of master list of brands that sanforize, brands that shrink a ton, and brands that stretch a ton.

Part of the reason I'm really feeling Ande Whalls for my next pair (aside from cmf's reco) is that I can be fairly confident that they won't change shape a ton - he sanforizes, and lets you know up front that there's minimal shrinkage. The thread I mentioned above is kind of depressing, in a way; there's probably at least a couple thousand dollars of wasted cash visible there - a lot of comments like "should have sized down two" or "should have sized up" or "oh well". I know tips on sizing are floating around out there for most of the major brands, but perhaps it would help to consolidate them.

So, in an attempt to get the ball rolling, which of the big brands on this board sanforize? Actually, do any? Am I right that all the big soho stuff is STF?

I dont have a pair yet, but it's my impression that Ande Whalls hardly shrink at all. They will however experience some stretching, but I'm not sure how much. I was hoping someone who had a pair (cmf?) would be able to answer that.

Originally Posted by evilgeniusdan

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I dont have a pair yet, but it's my impression that Ande Whalls hardly shrink at all. They will however experience some stretching, but I'm not sure how much. I was hoping someone who had a pair (cmf?) would be able to answer that.

As I said above, I know he sanforizes, so I'm not worried about his stuff; it's everyone else.

For example, I dug up an old thread where Brian said he thought APC sanforizes, but I was under the impression they shrink a couple inches in length (which is why I haven't gotten a pair yet - I don't want the 35 inseam shrinking to, say, a 33); otoh, they stretch a ton. I suppose it may actually be easier to search brand by brand, here or at the other SF; I just thought having a master list of sanforized brands would be helpful.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I always believed APC were safornized as they didn't require a hot soak before wearing.

Originally Posted by theshonen8899

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Correct me if I'm wrong but I always believed APC were safornized as they didn't require a hot soak before wearing.

You're probably right; I trust Brian's word over my vague recollection of reading that they weren't. Still, I thought they shrink a bit in the inseam?

PC is sanforized, but even sanforized denim is gonna shrink a bit (most noticeably in the inseam).

Generally, if its Japanese or Levi, its gonna be unsanforized (though I'm sure theye are exceptions).

I've seen safornized Sugarcanes before and yeah all jeans shrink, just unsafornized shrink a lot.

Originally Posted by evilgeniusdan

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I dont have a pair yet, but it's my impression that Ande Whalls hardly shrink at all. They will however experience some stretching, but I'm not sure how much. I was hoping someone who had a pair (cmf?) would be able to answer that.
after a week of wear they stretched less than my samurais did in one day. the knees still dont bag out, and the thighs are still pretty tight.

PC jeans come with an inseam of about 38 (at least in sz 34) afaik. I hemmed my rescues 4.5" and there is still at least 2" of stack.

lee sanforizes!

and lee repros will be sanforized.

^^unless they are sugarcane lee repros.... then the tag says sanforized, but they are not sanforized.

I'll start. Scale is * - **** Note that if you can button up your pair of jeans, they will stretch to accomodate. This guide is following stuff I bought in my normal denim size. 5EP (Example is Boot Cut Resin O/W) - Sanforized Stretching: ** Shrinking: * Rag&Bone (Example is RB11 Selvage) - Sanforized Stretching: ** Shrinking: * Pure Blue Japan (Example is XX-003 O/W) - Unsanforized Stretching: ** Shrinking: * Nudie RRDS Stretching: **** Shrinking: ** Julian Red California (Example is NoWash) - Sanforized Stretching: **** Shrinking: * APC New Standards - Sanforized Stretching: **** Shrinking: ** Johnbull SC008 (Example is O/W) - Sanforized Stretching: ** Shrinking: ** Studio D'Artisan SD-105 (Example is Raw) - Unsanforized Stretching: *** Shrinking: **** Okay the sun is starting to rise and I havent slept yet. Somebody else continue my list.

Awesome; thanks for running with this, Brian - I was beginning to think we were on the verge of a "just search the damn brands" post from somebody. As I said, some of this information is floating out there in the SF/SD ether, but the more information on how different brands change shape we're able to consolidate, the better - like I said, it sucks to see/hear about people dropping $200 on a good pair of raw denim, only to be unhappy with the fit later on. It's always a bit of a gamble, I suppose, but this kind of thread will increase the odds that people get what they're looking for.

Also, what the hell are you doing pulling an all-nighter on a Monday? Are you in the midst of another flame war over on supertrash?

julian red hoboken example is nikki sixx 100% cotton. sanforized

stretching ***
shrinking *

(i recommend buying them as tight as you can button)

Bump-a-bump-a-bump
A-bump-bump

Thought I'd bring this back up, since someone asked about stretching on Canes; my hope was to have this serve as kind of a resource for those questions.

Any chance we can change the name to reflect that - something more general than "which brands sanforize?"? In retrospect, dumb idea on my part.

Maybe something like "stretching and shrinkage", or "how jeans change shape", or whatever.