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Recent content by Thomas Auer

New posts
  1. T

    Questions about "luxury" shirting

    Little late response, but I think it's fair to say that from a technical stand point, very few hand operations add anything of substance to the construction of a shirt (although many will tell you otherwise). Also, no handmade armhole will last as long or stay as clean, as proper machine...
  2. T

    Questions about "luxury" shirting

    Since Alumo was the topic a few weeks ago: Does anyone have any informations on the future of Alumo. They merged with their "finisher" Cilander a while ago, and Cilander is set to cease operations come August 2024? Are there any information on how this will effect Alumo?
  3. T

    Folded Up Shirt Appreciation

    Did a marcella fronted tux shirt for a friend a while ago. The marcella is from acorn and rather heavy and the body is made from a zephyr cloth from Grandi e Rubinelli.
  4. T

    Proper cloth - men’s dress shirt collar issue

    Its probably the collar shape/spring in conjunction with the shape of the stand. It's quite normal for a higher spread collar to "get away" a little bit. Can't say how it looks when worn though, but I don't see it as a problem.
  5. T

    Most important handwork on a shirt

    Attaching the cuff per Hand really does have a great look to it. There are even some makers who do the slip stitch on the outside, meaning you see the hand stitch (usually it's the other way round so you habe no visible stitching on the right side of attachment). As for the folds, in general...
  6. T

    Looking for Budget Friendly Dress Shirt Recommendations (Building New Wardrobe)

    It really depends on what quality you are looking for. I think the cavour shirts in sale are pretty great value for money-they use decent fabrics and are single needle stitched (if this is important to you). Had some shirts from ehaberdasher some years ago and found them pretty decent...
  7. T

    Folded Up Shirt Appreciation

    Looks great. I really like the collar although maybe not traditional with black tie. I started to wear those more Italian styled spread collars with a tux as well and think they look great. I do like the fact that front hasn't been broken up with a placket, but than again it's really hard to do...
  8. T

    Most important handwork on a shirt

    To me, there really are no important handwork passages on a shirt, at least construction wise. Most explanation on why this or that hand passage makes this or that difference are highly overblown,I feel. Maybe slip stitching the armhole makes for a slightly cleaner look, but overall I think it's...
  9. T

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    It's hard to judge by photos alone given that people tend to stand more upright than usual when taking pictures but I think you need more length in the front through the chest area. But again, given specific recommendation by pictures alone is often a little misleading.
  10. T

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    I think it is an ok fit for mtm. The huge issue is a balance one and I doubt that this can be accounted for with made to measure. Other than that I think the left shoulder could be extended. Also chambray tends to drape a little more forgiving than, lets say, a 120 popelin.
  11. T

    Where to find a good, bespoke shirtmaker?

    Have you tried Campe&Ohff as an entry level option? Alternativley I only know of Reisner in Munich. They seem to be rather good and produce In house in Munich. Vienna - of course - has plenty of options. Also, there might be some Italian makers doing Trunks shows in Germany as well.
  12. T

    Questions about "luxury" shirting

    I feel you with the white popelin with coverage... I mostly advice for some kind of twill, given the fact that most of my clients resent the idea of slight transparency and I haven't found a decent popelin either. I knew that hausammann is just a brand, but I think their bunch is quite classic...
  13. T

    Questions about "luxury" shirting

    BTW do you know when Canclini shifted to this focus on single ply fabrics? I think they are rather awful (even their 140/1). Though I really like there denims and linen. I really like their Hausammann & Moos brand though, great 120/2, but I don't know whats there plan with the mill really is...
  14. T

    Questions about "luxury" shirting

    I think he still has some, just not on the homepage and with very limited colors. According to him, it's a 140/2 sea island/linen.
  15. T

    Questions about "luxury" shirting

    It's David & John Anderson, it's the luxury, superfine collections from Thomas mason, starting from 170/2
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